Guiding in winter 2024 (Fully booked).

Ever dreamed about climbing a frozen waterfall above the sea, with northern lights flaming on the sky? Skiing an endless field of powder straight to the ocean? What about climbing the arctic alpine ridge of Stetind in winter, and ski down? Come to climb and ski with me this winter in Northern Norway to experience its magic!

For bookings: send me a message on +358451052287 or mail

Examples of what we could do:


Ski touring in Northen Norway is spectacular! We offer tailor made ski touring weeks and long weekends in a region you prefer.

Senja: My personal favourite. Ski touring in a dramatic scenery. Most of the mountains being 700-900 meters tall, meaning you can easily ski two diffirent mountains in a day or just one and enjoy the rest of your day exploring fishing villages or relaxing in a hot tub/sauna.

Lyngen: The most alpine region of Northern Norway. Lyngen has it all! Everything from endless mellow powder fields to almost 2000m big mountain runs.

Narvik: Explore the most quiet mountains of the north. Start your week with offpiste runs at Narvikfjellet ski resort. Continue with remote big mountain skiing and end your week skiing some of the classic couloirs of the Couloir City.


Accommodation: Options are several from ski lodges to private cabins. With or without food.

Price: Ask for an offer. It all depends about size of the group and number of days. Max 6 persons per guide. For bigger groups we will have two or more guides.


Want to learn and shape your ski mountaineering skills to be able to take a step further in your own skiing? Northern Norway is a perfect place to practise and ski amazing lines at the same time. We go through tactics, safety and technical parts of ski mountaineering. For example skiing on a glacier, climbing couloirs and navigating through technical terrain. Lenght of the course is minimum 4 days and max 7 days. Previous ski touring experience is required.


Accommodation: Options are several from lodges to private cabins. With or without food.

Price: Ask for an offer. Max three persons per guide. For bigger groups we will have two or more guides.


Ice climbing in Northern Norway and Sweden offers world class climbing. It has everything from shorter roadside climbs in Abisko to 700m long climbs in Narvik or climbing above the fjords in Lyngen. No matter if you are a beginner or experienced ice climber, icefalls of the north won’t dissapoint. Quality of the climbing is as good as in the Alps but without people!


Accommodation: Options are several from lodges to private cabins. With or without food.

Price: Ask for an offer. Max two persons per guide.


The best winter climbing in Northern Norway! We have endless possibilities of icefalls above the sea and famous frozen turf climbs, without forgetting the alpine ridge climbing to the summits. No matter if you are a beginner or experienced winter climber, Senja is a must!


Accommodation: Options are several from lodges to private cabins. With or without food.

Price: Ask for an offer. Max two persons per guide.


Want to learn and shape your winter climbing skills to be able to take a step further in your own climbing? Senja is a perfect place to practise and climb amazing lines at the same time. We go through tactics, safety and technical parts of winter climbing in Scandinavia during the days. Lenght of the course is minimum 4 days and max 7 days. Previous ice climbing experience is required.


Accommodation: Options are several from lodges to private cabins. With or without food.

Price: Ask for an offer. Max two persons per guide.

New routes in Northern Norway. Summer 2023

Collection of topos of our new summer routes in Northern Norway in 2023.

Reka (607m), Langøya, Vesterålen.

We established three new routes on the SE face of Reka (607m) this summer. Iconic mountain had previously only one summer route on it`s SE face from 2013 by Magnus Eriksson and Jonas Jakobsen, called Labyrinth. Climbing on the face is steeper and more hold rich than normally in the area and due to that I got hooked and returned to it four times during the summer.

Picture by: Paal Uglefisk Lund.

Routes on from left to right:

Labyrinth, 200m (7). FA Magnus Eriksson and Jonas Jakobsen, 2013.

  • Starts from a wide crack on the left hand side of the pillar. First ascent team did pendulums on the last part of the route but in 2023 Juho free climbed that section as Minotauros joins to the same line on the last pitch. Actual grades of the lower pitches are unknown but the last pitch is probably the crux and goes now at 7. Route was climbed ground-up.

Minotauros, 200m (7). FA Juho Knuuttila and Sara Skoglund, 2023.

  • Line joins Labyrinth on the last pitch. Has potential to become a classic of the face. Take a large rack up to camalot number 4. Route was climbed ground-up and on-sight.

P1: 7-, 40m.
Climb up a chimney behind a leaning rock tower. Climb top of the tower and do a wild move to a crack on the left. Climb up this crack to a scoop.
P2: 7-, 40m.
Continue up cracks to a small roof. Pass that from the right. Continue to another roof and pass that also from the right by following big grey holds 7m the right. Then head back left to do a hanging belay.
P3: 6, 25m.
Head straight up a fist crack. Then go up a left trending ramp. Step up right to a small ledge. Belay from there.
P4: 7-, 40m.
Follow left trending cracks for 40m to the base of a large yellow wall. There is a ledge base of a mini dihedral to belay from. Hard to make a belay.
P5: 7, 60m.
Climb 7m on crimps up left. Bold at the start. Then traverse right on grey rock. Then head straight up until you can traverse left again to a ledge. Head straight up following flakes and cracks. This pitch can be splitted to two.

Iliad, 200m (7). FA Juho Knuuttila and Joda Dolmans, 2023.

  • Adventurous route which has a bit more flakey rock than other lines. Take a large rack up to camalot number 5. Route was climbed ground-up and on-sight.
    P1: 6-, 35m.
    Climb up a chimney/wide crack. Continue past booming flakes to a hanging belay.
    P2: 7, 40m.
    Follow crack until it ends. Then long reach to a crack on the right. Put pieces in and do a downclimb/traverse to a another crack system further right. Continue up that for 30m to a sloping ledge.
    P3: 6+, 25m.
    Straight up a right facing corner into a left facing dihedral with some flakes. Belay from a good ledge top of a tower.
    P4: 6+, 35m.
    Step left and follow steep cracks to an area of grey rock. Continue up on grey rock (bold) towards a small roof. Belay top of that or step to the right to belay in a corner.
    P5: 7, 35m
    Head towards a left facing corner on face holds. Climb steep corner up to a fridge block. Then traverse left under a roof to get to a nice crack. Climb up that to a base of another roof. Pass that from the right. Belay top of this roof.
    P6: 6+, 40m
    Head straight up. Then few meters left before continuing straight up. Top out and belay from a huge rock.

Rødpillaren, 225m (A2 or 8-). FA Juho Knuuttila, Lassi Meronen and Orlando Addis.

  • Testpiece of the face. The most sustained climbing on the steepest part of the pillar. Still waiting a continuous free ascent as crux pitch was only followed free. Take a large rack up to camalot number 4. Lots of triple sizes and small gear too. Route was climbed ground-up but required too attempts.

P1: 6-, 15m.
Climb up a corner to a nice ledge.
P2: 7, 30m.
‘The Vein pitch’. Head straight up using double cracks until you reach a grey vein leading up right. Follow the vein with some hard moves to a hanging belay.
P3: 7, 30m
Straight up, following a shallow crack (bold). Reach right to get to a nice crack in a corner. Continue straight up until cracks run out. Do few delicate moves left to gain a sloping ledge.
P4: 7, 30m.
‘The down climb’. First up an easy corner. Then step right to climb shallow cracks to a sloping ledge. Then do a tricky downclimb/traverse to the right.
P5: A2 or 8-, 45m.
‘The mega pitch of Reka’. Climb to the base of a small roof. Pass that from the left. Continue up a crack until it ends. Then traverse left on cracks to gain a flake. Do another powerfull traverse to the left to gain a thin crack in a left facing corner. Follow that up to a grey rock. Belay from a good ledge top of the grey colored rock. (Small gear for the belay).
P6: 7-, 25m.
‘Lassi’s pitch’. Step right from the ledge and climb up to small roofs (bold). Climb over them trending right. Hanging belay.
P7: 7, 30m.
‘The finger crack’. Head left following cracks and big holds until you reach a steep thin hands/finger crack. Climb that straight up to a sloping ledge.
P8: 6+, 40m.
Follow weakneses straight up to the top.

Approach: Parking as for the normal route. You follow the normal path until the first big swamp. After that continue following the shore of the fjord until you can hike up a valley on the northeast side of the mountain (2h) To get to the base of the wall you need to traverse big grass ledge system from left to right (1h, grade 2).

Descent: Continue easily to the summit of Reka (20min) and rappel down the normal route.

Lappviktinden, Peak 1338m, Skjomen.

Lappblad, 600m (6). FA Juho Knuuttila, 2023.

In August 2023 I free/rope soloed a new line on the NE face of Peak 1338m. It probably shares first two pitches with Krister Jonssons Cafe Solo, but then heads left when Kristers line goes right. Fredrik Aspö had attempted the same line few years earlier but bailed 3/4 up the wall.

Really nice slabby climbing. Some splitter cracks and exposed climbing on the edge in the last part of the route. Highly recommended. Take a rack up to camalot number 5.

Ytre Sætertinden, Bjærangen, Meløy.

I dronningens skygge, 300m (7). FA Juho Knuuttila and Joda Dolmans, 2023.

Topo will come up later but our line follows the obvious corner in the middle and then trends right to a splitter crack high up right on the face. Pitches are 7, 6, 7-, 6+, 5+, 4+, 7 and 7-. Route was climbed ground-up and on-sight.

New routes in Northern Norway – winter 21/22

First winter season in Northern Norway was quite productive one, even though we had several bad weather periods that lasted weeks. Below you can find topos from all the biggest new routes we managed to climb. There so much more to explore. Feels like I just scratched a surface. Feel free to ask more info about locations and lines as topos are not very detailed.


Kärkevagge valley, Sweden. New direct variation to Trollbaletten. Original line was climbed by Sofie Eriksson and Alexander Nordvall in January 2020. In November 2021 I added a direct start and ending to it, climbing it as a full ice line.

In November 2021 me and Joda Dolmans developed a new ice sector to Kärkevagge valley in Sweden, establishing three steep ice lines.

We continued our search of virgin ice and found a new line high on the platteus of Lappskardet, above the deep valley of Kirkesdalen in Norway.

Last addition to local ice scene was FlipFlop Krigere in Stordalen with Joda and Sofie. Climbed in November 2021.

In February conditions were good again. Sofie and me did a new mixed route in Skjomen, naming it to Guardians of the Galaxy. Four pitches of good climbing on the SW side of Lapviktinden.

Marcus Loewen, Sami Modenius and me did a last obvious unclimbed line on the SW face of Grytetippen in Senja in February 2022. A good mountaineering route with a shorth approach.

After Grytetippen I free soloed a new line to SW face of Barden. Chamonix style goulotte climbing all the way. This has a potential to become a classic. Approach from Mefjordbotn takes an hour.

Last new route in Senja was first ascent of the N face of Breidtind with Sami Modenius. Finnjävel climbs to the highest point of the island following obvoius features on the face. It was the first route that continues all the way to the true summit.

In early March 2022 I did a new line on the NW face of Blokktind with Eivind Jacobsen. It was a highlight of the season for sure.






Guardians of the Galaxy – Skjomen

I have been struggling to write trip reports lately but last Tuesday we had a day out which reminded, that climbing is more than just a sport, at least for me. I see some artistry in it, especially when climbing new terrain without any information. When you have no clue if something is climbable or are you skilled and strong enough. 

In the beginning of January, when skiing Gangnesaksla couloir in Skjomen, we spotted a hanging ice drip on a steep rock wall. It looked like a glowing dot in the middle of a black, steep rock face in a morning twilight. Would it be possible to reach that? 

Earlier in the season we developed some new ice climbs around Narvik but when standing under most of them, we were able to say that yeah, we can climb those but with this line it wasn’t sure at all. That was a feeling I have been missing. Trying to solve a puzzle, connecting dots, dealing with uncertainty.

I got back from Chamonix in early February, just in time to do some shift pooling at work to get a few days off before the next snowfall. After doing Søylefossen, a Spansdalen classic with Marcus Loewen on Monday it was time to attempt the line in Skjomen. Climbing conditions looked amazing!

I teamed up with Sofie Eriksson, Narvik based skilled all around climber. On Tuesday morning we drove to Sør-Skjomen playing a soundtrack from the Guardians of the Galaxy. Listening song after song from ´60s and ´70s – beating a sound of a gusting wind which lifted up waves in a fjord and dusted the road with last fluffy snow which had not been flown away earlier. 

The line is located in a narrow gorge in which the left hand wall rises steeply above your head while the right hand side is more mellow and vegetated. We made quick progress hopping on boulders and cramponing up firm snow. Gorge felt quite hostile in a way and would definitely be an avalanche trap in snowy conditions, with cornices looming above.

Our intended line didn’t look any easier from below but we decided to have a look anyway. Immaculate granite sheets looked almost impassable, but maybe there was a weakness that would let us reach that hanging ice. 

We simul soloed a short snow couloir to the base of an ice streak, quite far right from the upper ice we were aiming for. Armed with a jumar, single and half rope, pitons, almost double rack of cams and loads of ice screws. Idea was to climb that streak and then try to follow a ledge system for a moment before trying to find a way through a rock barrier. 

Already the first pitch set up a theme for a day. Run out traverses that were as committing for the second as for the leader. Rope stretching 60m pitch with some insecure sections warmed us up. 

Second pitch looked steeper and would probably be the key pitch of the route. It began to snow when I climbed a few meters of ice to reach a horizontal crack under a roof. It was pure joy to see that we would have some foot holds too, not just a blank slab for the feet. Long reaches, hooking from a flake to another while traversing more and more left at the same time. There seemed to be a weakness to follow!

A short but quite physical and steep step formed a crux of the pitch. Gear was okay but quite far apart. Laybacking a mossy flake on the roof and lifting my feet high up felt quite involved for a moment but managed to pull it off and reached a clean crack to stuff as many good cams in as wanted, to make a good belay. 

Spindrifts started to fall down granite sheets while Sofie seconded the pitch. Most of the time I couldn’t see her as roofs blocked the view but heard music she was playing from her phone and singing along. When she got closer I realised that she was climbing only with one axe and crabbing icy flakes while wearing mittens. I wouldn’t even be able to climb ice with big gloves on and especially not tricky mixed.

Now we were half a pitch away from the main ice but the terrain looked mentally challenging. Snow plastered rock with some ice blobs here and there that required gentle hooking. Stubby screw in a icy crack as a only possible protection I went for it. I knew that I could climb it if I shut my brains off for a moment but still it took some time to weigh risk versus reward. Sofie didn’t say much but I felt she had enough trust that it would be okey to continue. 

First secure tool placements on thick ice felt quite good. It went! But just. Probably a few weeks earlier it would have been impossible. 

Exposure grew belly tingling as we climbed ice high above the gorge. In a way the ice we were on felt a bit harder than the terrain below or maybe it was just a mental exhaustion that was kicking in.  

Late afternoon was getting darker as we neared the top. Sofie belayed me up the last pitch to a cave and said: `I just realised that I have climbed ice only once during last two months. Calves were burning a bit´. Quite a route to start spring climbing season! 

Lights of Sør-Skjomen below and fainth glow from a half moon above illuminate our descent. We decided to rapp straight down, hoping to find enough ice or cracks to build anchors. Rappels were a bit scary as terrain was steep and rock so compact that in case of lack of ice, we would need to do some more tricks to reach the ground. Luckily it went well and in no time we were back at the car, now playing songs from teenage years. 

Such a day couldn´t end in any other way than eating pizza, having a glass of wine I brought from France and finishing up with some gelato. That`t how all alpine climbing trips should end. Now we’re on our backyard mountains but the whole day felt like being further away. Maybe in another galaxy. 

Guardians of the Galaxy (230m, WI5, M5+, R), FA Juho Knuuttila, Sofie Eriksson, 2022


Storskiva – Ørneeggen

After flying back to Europe from Pakistan in early August I headed straight to Lofoten for some relaxed rock climbing. In the end managed to do a first ascent of the West Face of Storskiva with Misha Mishin, in the far west of Lofoten islands. The whole story can be found here.

Orneeggen (N7, C1), Storskiva. FA Juho Knuuttila and Misha Mishin, 2021.

Approach and descent. Arrow shows the way.

Misha on the approach slopes.

Juho leading on entry slabs.

Edge of the World feelings.

Grass climbing 2.0

Misha following on one of the rare full free climbing pitches.

Spicy slabs.

Misha and Juho.

Stora Sjöfallet – new mixed lines

Late in 2020 we opened new mixed lines at Stora Sjöfallet. At first I wasn`t going to publish these at all but due to news about Southern European climbers claiming first ascents in the area and giving quite detailed topos about their climbs, I felt like we should do it too. So here we go:

From left to right:

  1. Nirvana (M7, Wi5), Samuli Pekkanen, 2020. 2 pitches. The line has been climbed as an icefall too but it forms very rarely.
  2. Trendsetter (M6), Juho Knuuttila, 2020. 60m.
  3. Japanilainen puutarha (M5+), Samuli Pekkanen, 2020. 30m
  4. Ice Hiking (M6, Wi5), Juho Knuuttila, 2020. 30m
  5. Mörk Finska, (M6+), Juho Knuuttila, 2020. 30m

Sector is located 150m right from the start of Grevinnan.


Samuli craving for Nirvana.

Juho hand jams first few meters of Trendsetter.

Juho on Trendsetter.

Samuli enjoying his garden.

Juho goes Ice Hiking.

Juho on Mörk Finska.





Manitua – Grandes Jorasses

Two of the biggest, hard summer alpine routes in the Mont Blanc massif that feed my dreams are Divine Providence on Pilier d´Angle and Manitua on the north face of Grandes Jorasses. Of course you have harder rock climbs, longer ridges and link-ups, but for me, those two are the main reasons coming back to the massif in summer. Probably I will return again and again for granite cracks, but dangerous game of summer alpinism could be put in hold after climbing those two.

Line of Manitua with our bivouacs marked.

After soloing Peuterey Integral in late July focus was more in low stress rock climbing rather than in big alpine, but as always, hunger grows and you start to be more restless. Divine Providence was out of the game in late August, but for Manitua conditions could be actually be quite good.

Several day weather window was approaching and it would begin with a quite cold and cloudy day. A perfect opportunity to climb exposed lower part of Manitua without getting too scared with rockfall. Luckily Sami Modenius was ready for a big climb! Also my Chamonix flatmate Samuli Pekkanen got super stoked about the route and asked if he could join us. With his big wall experience our team would be stronger as nature of the climb kinda forces you to haul and aid some pitches. Except if you are climbing 7c free, on big and scary alpine face and doing it quickly which most of the people won´t.

Approaching the black looking wall. Picture by Samuli Pekkanen.

In summer 1991, a legendary Slovenian alpinist Slavko Sveticic managed to find a line of weakness through the blankest part of the N face of Grandes Jorasses. He climbed for three days in a shadow, establishing a route called Manitua, named after his friend, whom died on the same face a year earlier.

With Walker Spur, Manitua is the only route that gets ascents regularly in summer. There are few others rock routes like Le Nez, but they are off the radar. Jorasses is after all the arena for biggest mixed lines in the massif.

Manitua had a period when it got just winter aid ascents but since summer 2015, when Korra Pesce and Tomas Muller did the first one day ascent, it has turned to be more popular in summer. Dry summers and bad mixed climbing conditions have forced keen Jorasses climbers mainly to Walker and Manitua, other routes being out of condition most of the time.

Low angled snow at the start.

As a team of three we headed from the first Montenvers train of the day towards base of the Jorasses on Monday. Walk in was fastest I have done, as glacier was mostly free of snow. Big streams were running high up on the glacier showing the rude effects of climate change. We took the rope out for the last hour for the crevassed part before launching to the face around 13:30.

First 400m to the base of the shield were horrible loose show of choss. We had to climb carefully and ended up pitching almost the whole lower part. Simul climbing would have been too dangerous at times, but due to cold and cloudy day the whole face was death silent, which was perfect for us. No rockfall!

Ambiance! Loose traverse under the shield. Can you spot Samppa?

Climbing itself was very easy. Last pitch of the day was one move 5c which is a variation to avoid 6c death slab. Variation makes also much more sense and doesn´t feel forced like the original start.

I don´t know why topo doesn´t mention mega ledges top of the first pitch of the shield, but those might be the best place to spend a night on the whole face. We were able to fully lay down and relax while moving clouds gave some extra ambiance.

Best bivy on the face?

After midnight we were able to see line of headlamps on the glacier heading for Walker Spur. How much better it would be to start climbing straight from the bivy and avoid tiring approach at night? Much better!

Sami took the first lead block in the morning when sun hit the shield. We had an hour of sunlight before shadows of the N face were upon us again. Sami led three 6b pitches in a big corner with some verglass or shorth wet sections at times. Nothing too bad for a big alpine face though.

Sami heading up on the first pitch of the day.

Samppa following.

Sami leading in a big corner system.

Leader climbed without a pack, he would haul most the gear with a tag line and seconds climbed with quite light packs. This system would continue top of the shield.

I took the second lead block for few overhanging 6c/+ pitches that in my opinion had the best free climbing on the route. Amazing big holds on a wildly steep terrain. I also did the ramp to the start of the last part of the shield where Samppa started his block.

Juho leading some steep terrain. Picture by Samuli Pekkanen.

Steep hauling. Picture by Samuli Pekkanen.

Some 6b climbing led to a bold 7a pitch which was climbed with pulling pitons and cams. It was already quite cold and free climbing wasn’t the first priority. I had climbed everything free until that point but that 7a looked quite uninviting with micro crimps.

Again some easier stuff before we were under the crux of the route. It was also the last pitch of the shield. An overhanging wall guarding exit to easier terrain. Ground under out feet dropped 400 meters straight down and base jump would have been more than possible.

Juho following.

Samppa leading higher on the face.

We had two options. To do original A3 exit pitch of Manitua or climb the last 7c pitch of Le Nez which is more often done nowdays. Samppa went for the latter and had a proper battle up it with mixture of free and aid climbing. Luckily we had some peckers and pitons with us. It should have been 6c/A1 but even moves to first in-situ pitons were tricky, risking a painful fall to a sharp edge.

An impressive lead which made first on-sight go of the pitch by Symon Welfringer few weeks earlier to look quite an achievement.

Samppa dealing with the crux. Picture by Sami Modenius.

We still had daylight left but wind had picked up and we were risking a very windy night on the summit if we would continue. We wanted to go down from Pointe Walker to avoid loose rappels from Pointe Croz. That would mean climbing few hundred meters of a ridge in a dark in strong winds, so best option was just to find a bivy and take it as a training for bigger mountains.

We found a small cave left from a top anchor of Le Nez and dug it deeper and better for two people. Samppa was able to sleep on a ledge ten meters higher while I and Sami played cavemen. The bivy was quite good and protected from a wind, though changing position at night was hard.

Second bivy in a cave.

On the next morning we started following the original line of Manitua through some loose mixed terrain until we joined the Croz Spur at the notch. I had done the last part in spring 2019 with Etienne during our ascent of the Croz Spur, so I knew the last three pitches quite well. That time pitches felt really annoying and slow with snow, but now they were climbed quite fast with big boots and bare hands. Temperature was close the same though as wind raged strong around us. Situation was wild, the N face dropping 1000m to the glacier under our feet, conditions were alpine say the least and climbing interesting. I was happy to pull the last moves to the ridge out of the shadows, to the warmth and calmness of Italy.

Sami leading mixed terrain on day three. Picture by Samuli Pekkanen.

Ropes singing in the wind. Picture by Samuli Pekkanen.

It´s a relieving moment to top out but at the same time intensity of the N face disappears. Of course you still have a long and chaotic descent to Planpincieux ahead, but once again you managed to escape the dark and lived some of the most powerful days of your life.

Jorasses knows we will be back. We will always return with hunger of something harder. In search of a journey back to the light.

We summited Pointe Walker and had a quite uneventful descent down to Val Ferret. It´s long and very alpine but you lose altitude so quickly, that in six hours you are back in the green forests of the valley.

Summit! Picture by Samuli Pekkanen.

Manitua was my fourth route on the face, Sami`s third and Samppa`s first. I certainly hope that some time in the future face turns white again and allows us to follow it`s thin ice smears. Until that time, the Jorasses fever has decreased, if it ever fully does. There´s no wall like it in the World!





Traverse from Aiguille de l´M to Grepon

In the first part of August I teamed up with a Swedish climber Oscar Krumlinde for a few days. We had a few bigger ideas but as Oscar`s foot doesn´t really like rock climbing at the moment, so it would be wise to climb something with big boots. Not so easy if you want to go big in the Mont Blanc massif as most of the big summer routes I haven´t done yet require hard free climbing.

Weather was supposed to be stellar, so traverse of the Aiguilles de Chamonix came up as a best idea. Doing it the normal way (Midi-Blaitiere) would have been too easy and not interesting at all, so we decided to try it as reverse which makes actually more sense. Climbing is going up, not down right?

So, we would start from Aiguille de I´M, traverse Petit Charmoz, climb the NW ridge of Grand Charmoz, do Charmoz-Grepon traverse, climb up the rocks next to Spencer couloir and then continue via the classic Aiguilles traverse but in reverse to the Aiguille du Midi – traversing the whole skyline of the Aiguilles above the Chamonix valley. David Lama did it in 18 hours, so how hard can it be?

It snowed two days straight before our departure, but as often in summer, we thought that snow would melt fast during the first day. We took a lazy 8:00am start from Plan de Aiguille cause of that. Walked to the base of NNE spur of Aiguille de I´M and started climbing around 9:30.

NNE spur is a old school classic in Chamonix.

As we were lazy, there were already two teams front of us on the NNE spur. We took it easy and just followed on the line on a quite polished route. At least crux (5b) pitches were really slippery with big boots.

I´M was followed by a quick traverse of Petit Charmoz which wasn`t that special. We skipped the summit and continued pass the Doig de Ettala for the first grade four sections of the NW ridge of Grand Charmoz.

Snow started to appear on the ridge. Soon we had 20cm of it on ledges and slabs. Once on the northern side of the Charmoz it really slowed us down.

Oscar still low on the NW ridge.

NW ridge was first climbed in 1950 by Pierre Allain and co and I have to admit that I didn`t expect climbing to be tricky at all. I had just soloed the Peuterey Integral a week before, which begins with S ridge of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and is full of grade five steps. I had climbed that with ease, never even hauling my back afterwards. But now, on Charmoz, even the first 5b put us back on the track. I would say every pitch was graded like in bouldering, so moves felt a lot harder. Still a 6a boulder shouldn´t be a problem, but add snow and icy cracks and big boots and soon it becomes a big effort to get up even pulling from cams.

Icy cracks didn’t make 6a climbing easier. Oscar on the lead.

First 5b on the route. Rock shoes went back to pack quicly after this. Too much snow.

I should also mention two pendulums. The first one is avoidable with a 5b slab but the second one is a super airy and little bit sketchy, 10m pendulum around a corner. Allain went for the full send for sure in 1950!!

Before the last two 6a slab pitches to the summit of Charmoz we found a perfect bivy ledge. It was just 19:00, which would mean two hours of light left, but we took the ledge. We would be able to dry our socks in a sunset, take it easy, and wait for snow to melt a bit more for the coming days. Plan was to make it to the Grepon on a first day, but it wouldn´t happen in two hours.


I fixed the rope for the first 6a slab before dinner. Then we had a stunning birthday evening above the clouds and Chamonix valley. The best bivy I have done!

The following morning we jugged up and climbed a 6a+ death slab which was protected with fixed rurp?? and some shaky pitons. How in Earth they did that in 1950?

Soon after we joined the classic Charmoz-Grepon traverse until we managed to rap accidently to the Charmoz-Grepon couloir. Too many raps meant 200m of mixed climbing getting back to the ridge. Very annoying and a major route finding error.

Terrain on Charmoz-Grepon.

Anyway climbing was snowy, old school and rough. Scenery was spectacular while traversing exposed granite needles, but I wasn`t sure if the climbing itself was quality. Probably not. At least it was odd.

Still snowy on day two.

Canon hole or letterbor or something like that. The whole ridge was named.

We summited the Grepon and started rappelling and down climbing the Col des Nantillons. We had found core shot middle of our single half rope a few hours earlier and it did get worse under the usage. That and the amount of snow still on the rocks guided us quite quickly the direction of Plan de Aiguille and Chamonix. It wouldn´t be fun and not even safe to continue with a broken rope, so going down was kind of a only option.

Wide and slippery.

Oscar on the last moves to the summit of Grepon.

Summit Madonna of Grepon.

Nantillons glacier was in doable condition but with a lot of slushy snow. Coming down from the col didn´t take that much time and soon were in a lift back to Chamonix center.

A fun little adventure, but I´d recommend it in dry conditions for the maximum fun!

Tengkangpoche North Pillar attempt

Last Autumn I traveled to the Himalayas for the first time. Quentin Roberts (Canada), Tim Banfield (Canada) and I spent six weeks in Khumbu area of Nepal acclimaziting and trying to unlock one of the last big unclimbed lines in Nepal – the North Pillar of Tengkangpoche. We got very close of success on this magical line, but after six days on the wall blank slab stopped us. We reached a new highpoint at 5930m, but still we were 550m short of the summit. I´m not sure if I ever will attempt something as proud and beautiful again.

There has been so many blogs and articles about the climb that I just link them here and won´t write more.

Blog post in Finnish at Camu`s website:

Story in English at Planetmountain:

Cutting Edge podcast:

I´m feel happy and privileged about the whole experience, even though the line was much different from our first and second objectives, which crashed down due to politics and other climbers climbing planned faces before us. Luckily Quentin is a boss climbing that kind of a terrain that fast! I hope I can reach the same level, though I might prefer a terrain where you can move slightly faster. 😉 Best of luck for his next attempt!

Line of our attempt and bivouacs numbered.

Mixed terrain on day two.

Headwall was steep!

Quentin on the headwall.

Our last bivy at 5880m.

Everest and Lhotse seen from our wall.

I and Quentin after the attempt. Picture by Tim Banfield.



Haukkavuoren talvikiipeilytopo



Mixtakiipeily Rautjärven Haukkavuoren pääseinällä on sallittu vain topon osoittamalla sektorilla. Metsäsektorillakin on hyvä tarkistaa 27 Cragsistä kalliokiipeilyreittien sijainnit. Pääseinän linjat ovat monesti kunnossa vain tammi-helmikuussa.

Pääseinälle on helpoin lähestyä järven jäätä pitkin talvella. Jääputouksille nopein reitti on laavun kautta, mutta monesti metsätietä ei ole aurattu, jolloin jäälähis on nopein.

  1. Harrin halkeama, M5+, FWA 2018. Ikivanhassa Haukkavuoren teknotopossa tämä linja kulkee nimellä Harrin halkeama. Se on myös ensimmäinen linja minkä yritin kiivetä pääseinältä loppuvuodesta 2014. Lopulta kiipesin sen viimeisenä viiden reitin koplasta. Lähinnä siksi, koska reitin toppaukseen vaaditaan roikkuva puikko, mikä muodostuu aniharvoin. Linja jakaa osittain sporttireitti Belladonnan skrämbläysosuuden ja halutessaan kiipeilijä voi klipata kesäreitin kolme keskimmäistä pulttia. Harrin halkeaman yläosa on taas huomattavasti henkisempää mixtaa ilmavalla toppauksella.
  2. Simola, M6, FWA 2018. Jani Lunnaksen 7b tasoinen sporttireitti on valuttaa käytännössä aina. Olikin ilo saada Janilta lupa kiivetä reitti hakuilla, sillä se on huomattavasti parempi talvi- kuin kesäreittinä. Tosin hakunpaikat eivät edes ole samat kuin kesäotteet, joten reitti on edelleen kalliokiipeiltevissä. Paras taktiikka on kiivetä puolivälin ständille varmistelemaan, sillä muuten hänkille mixtaosuudelle on köyttä ulkona melko paljon. Hänkillä on pari pulttia, jotka johtavat roikkuvalle puikolle. Toppaus joko Valojuovan tai Harrin halkeaman kautta.
  3. Valojuova, M?, FA 2017 Seinän ensimmäinen talvireitti ja ehkä yksi Suomen parhaista ohuen jään reiteistä. Puhtaasti luonnollisilla varmistettava linja! Viimeiset metrit tarjoilevat vaikeimman kiipeilyn. Greidiä on mahdotonta antaa suht loivalle, mutta ohuelle jäälle.
  4. Generation 2.0, M6, WI5, FA 2017. Neljäkymmentä metriä korkea kuningaslinja. Ensimmäiset 15 metriä ovat noin WI5 tasoista jääkiipeilyä hyvänä vuonna, mutta osittain Kuningasvesi sporttireitin pultteihin varmistettuna. Keskiosa on helppoa jäätä, joka johdattaa jyrkälle ja suht vaikealle stepille. Varmistuksia saa, mutta niitä pitää osata laittaa ja löytää. Tarkka ja henkinen pyllerys. Loppuun helpompaa mixtaa.
  5. Generation 2.0 variaatio, M6, FA 2018. Ainut seinän linjoista, jonka ensinousin puhtaasti ground-up tyylillä, tarkistamatta onko reitille mahdollista saada edes varmistuksia. Alkuun ohutta jäätä katon alle, josta poikkari vasempaan hyllylle. Hyllyn jälkeen Generation 2.0:aa ylös.

+ Pääseinän vasemaan laitaan on noustu seikkailureitti, joka seurailee loivia jääportaita.

Haukkavuoren jääputoukset + metsäsektorin mixtat:

Tämä sinertävä putous löytyy pääseinästä muutama sata metriä oikealle. Jyrkkä osuus noin 8-10 metriä ja loppusläbi siihen päälle.

Toinen pikkuputouksista. Puolivälissä lähestymistä laavulta.

Heti putouksen vasemmalla puolella on mixtareitti nimeltä Kolibri, M6, FA 2016. Kuvassa linja on pulskimmillaan ikinä. Ensinousu tehtiin muutaman millimetrin paksuista jäätä pitkin.

Kolibrista vielä hiukan vasemmalle löytyy Bingo, Gringo!, M5+, FA 2016. Monasti släbin alla on kevät-talvesta lunta sen verran, että alkusläbin uskaltaa kiivetä. Katonylitykseen saakin sitten kivasti varmistuksia. Kolibrin ja Bingo, Gringon! väliin tehtiin 2019 kesällä kolme hienoa halkeamareittiä, joita ei hakuilla saa kiivetä. 27 Cragistä löytyy betat niihin.

Korkein puhdas jääputous on se ensimmäinen laavulta tultaessa. 22 metrinen WI4 tarjoilee tekemistä hetkeksi. Putouksen oikeaan laitaan muodostuu toisinaan verho, jolle pääsee pikkupilaria pitkin. Linjan nimi on Mixtamestarit direct, WI5, FA 2017. Itse Mixtamestarit, M6, FA 2016 on taas enemmän alkukauden reitti. Se seurailee halkeamaa putouksen oikeasta laidasta vasemmalle, mutta jää nopeasti putouksen alle.

Jääputouksen oikeasta laidasta löytyy hänkki kattohalkema, joka on vielä projekti. Halkeamasta oikealle on El Toro, M6, WI5. Hienoimpia ensinousujani Suomessa. Harmi, että reitti on vain muodostunut kerran kevät-talvella, auringon sulattaessa lunta. El Toron vierestä numerolla yksi löytyy Patriarkka, M5+.


Vähän Haukkavuoren pohjoispuolelta löytyy Hyypiinvuori.

Hyypiinvuoren jääputous löydettiin ja ensinoustiin 2016.

Toinen Hyypiinvuoren linjoista on Hospital effect, M5+, FA 2016, joka löytyy heti jääputouksen oikealta puolelta. Nimi tulee siitä, kun reitin ensinousun jälkeen ajoimme Kallen kanssa läheiselle kalliolle yrittämään erään mixtalinjan ensinousua ground-uppina. Jään korkatessa lensin linjan takana olleen kelokoivun päälle muutamaa metriä ylempää. Isku oli sen verran kova, että sairaalareissu siitä tuli. Ei vammoja, mutta lihakset olivat niin jumissa tällistä, että en päässyt seuraavaan viikkoon sängystä ylös.



Juvan Kaarnavuori on kuuluisa teknokatostaan, mutta sieltä löytyy myös erinomainen mixtalinja Khimaira, M6, FA 2017. Reitti alkaa katon alapuolisilta jäiltä ja traversaa niitä linkittäen oikeaan hyllylle, mihin saa tehtyä ständin. Toinen 20 metrinen kp seuraa sisäkulman jäitä suoraan ylös ja toppaa villin ja ilmavan katon kautta vasemmalle.

Kalle ensimmäisen köydenpituuden lopulla.

Toppaus on mieleenpainuva.