3x7000m // Khan Tengri, Korzhenevskaya and Pik Lenin

In 2014 and 2015 I spend summer months attempting the legendary “Snow Leopard-peaks challenge” in the heart of Central-Asia. Five mountains reach the altitude of 7000 meters in the area of former Soviet union: Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m) and Pik Kommunizma (7495m) in Tajikistan and Pik Lenin (7134m), Khan Tengri (7010m) and Pik Pobeda (7439m) in Kyrgyzstan. The person who climbs all five, gets a tittle of “Snow leopard”.

The main idea was to get familiar with high alttitude and climb these amazing mountains as a preparation for the future. In 2014 I partnered with Lauri Hilander as we attempted Tajik giants. The following year my plan was to solo and break Denis Urubko`s record of climbing all five less than 42 days.

This is a long post full of pictures. You can find more detailed trip reports from Relaa.com (in Finnish).

 

Pik Korzhenevskaya and Pik Kommunizma, Tajikistan, 2014

 

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After a long night flight to Dushanbe, we immediately headed to Gisarssky mountains.
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We summited Kulai Javonov (4000m) and spent two nights at 3200 meters. We didn´t want to take a risk of flying straight up to Moskvina BC (4400m). Very wise indeed!
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Encounter with Shakram, the Tajik hunter, was pretty nervous as we all remembered Nanga Parbat 2013.
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After a short recovery in the weird Dushanbe, we continued to the Djirgital via Pamir highway.
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“This is Tajikistan!” – said the BC manager after waiting the MI-8 to arrive a day or so. Pilot`s were partying in Dushanbe as we waited…

 

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MI-8 dropped us to the Moskvina glade BC.
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Pik Kommunizma. The peak is actually giantic!
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First days around BC went walking around and getting used to new elevation.
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Mother nature showed whose the boss. Big avalanche running down.
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We did one acclimatization rotation on Korzhenevskaya, before the summit attempt. Scree slopes below the Camp 1 were torturing.
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Lauri at 5500 meters on Korzhenevskaya. Giant Kommunizma in the background.
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Weather was stellar the whole time and we were able to start our summit attempt in time. Lauri finding his way through the Moskvina glacier.
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On day one we climbed up to C1 (5300m) and the following day up to C3 (6400m).
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Czech climbers just below the C3. Korzhenevskaya`s summit is already visible.
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Camp 3 (6400m).
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Summit day was cold and clear. Lauri on the upper ridge.

 

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We summited Korzheneskaya (7105m) at 9:40 am and returned back to BC on a same day.
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Lauri got a minor frost nip to his toes, so I deciced to attempt Kommunizma on my own.

 

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Camp 1 (5300m) on Kommunizma. The route to this camp is extremely dangerous due to hanging seracs. I´ve never been so scared. BC is located between the two glaciers middle of the pic.
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On a second day the route follows the Borodkin Spur.

 

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Camp 2 (5800m) on a Big Pamir platteu. Here my bronchitis got worse and I deciced to abandon the attempt.
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Very happy to be able to act alone on a big mountain while feeling sick.

We managed to summit our first 7000 meter peak which was pretty awsome. Though, everything felt a bit too easy in the end. Kommunizma is still waiting our second visit!

Tajikistan is a weird country and I recommend to acclimatize elsewhere and do a very quick trip to Moskvina BC. And cook your own BC food! Pamir Peaks is the only operator, but book via Ak Sai-Travels. Their service is better! There´s some other interesting peaks in the region too, like Pik Moskva.

 

Pik Lenin, Khan Tengri and Pik Pobeda, Kyrgyzstan, 2015

Like I told, the plan was to attempt to climb all five peaks in a summer, but only one day before the departure, Tajik operator cancelled scheduled MI-8 flights. I had no other choice than travel to Kyrgyzstan and try to climb three remaining peaks inside it´s borders. It became an very exciting expedition after all!

 

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Travelling from Finland to the Base Camp of Pik Lenin took couple days.
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I spent first few days wondering around BC (3600m). Green and lush meadows reminded Elbrus north side BC.
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Hike up to C1 or ABC (4400m) was an painful experience with a 40kg load.

 

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ABC offers same kind of a services than BC. Pik Lenin`s avalanche prone N face ahead.

 

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Again. I did only one rotation to get acclimatized – two nights at C2 (5300m) and one night at 5800m.

 

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My lonely 5800 meters camp.
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Wasn´t feeling too good on a rotation, but it´s always like that. Hard work pays in the end.
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After one rest day at ABC I climbed directly to C3 (6100m). Sunrise over the Kyrgyz plains was beautiful.
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C3 at 6100 meters. Lot of people in the camp, but very few continued to the summit.
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Endless trail breaking paid off. On the summit of Pik Lenin (7134m). Three other climbers summited that day.
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I returned all the way to the ABC the following night. Slept few hour at C2 waiting glacier to freeze.

Succes on Pik Lenin lead to quick change of a mountain range. I flew to Bishkek and continued deep into Tien Shan. MI-8 dropped me to the Southern Inylchek BC (4100m) on the 20th of July. I would attempt Khan Tengri (Southern route) and Pik Pobeda (Normal route) from there.

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Spectacular views from BC. Khan Tengri in the distance.
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Evening walk to Khan Tengri`s Camp 1 (4300m) on flooding glacier was a pleasant way to start ascent.
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I ran up to West Col in 6 six hours through the Valley of Death on 21st of July. Maze of crevasses, seracs and avalanche debris kept my pace up in the dark.

 

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Camp 3 (5800m) under the West col´s schrund is a sheltered place to camp.
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I was the only one who started towards the summit that night. Lack of fixed ropes probably scared everyone away. The route was fixed just up to 6400 meters.
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West ridge was quick to climb, but getting into couloir was nasty. My pace was really slow due to fact that I had to dig old fixed lines up. Snow was unstable and that was my only option.
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I reached the summit of Khan Tengri 10:20 am on 22nd of July as a first person of the season. What a wonderful day! I definately loved every second being alone! I reached BC`s safety on 23rd of July.

Warm and sunny weather turned stormy and windy quickly after my return to BC. Next two weeks everyone waited a weather window to attempt Pik Pobeda, one of the coldest mountains in the World. Pobeda is harder than many 8000 meter peaks they say. At first, I didn`t believe that, but upcoming weeks showed brutal and extremely dangerous mountain. It takes your last breath away very easily!

 

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I found old friends at BC.
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2xMI-8
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Kazakh pilots doing some work!
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We did short climbs around BC.
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Massive Inylchek glacier and BC.
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Climbers waiting…
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Nights get colder towards mid August.

 

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Pik Pobeda!
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Finally we received optimistic weather forecast and begun a 4 hour walk to C1.
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I teamed up with Paul (UK) due to safety reasons.

 

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Camp 1 (4500m) under the mighty N face of Pik Pobeda. Wouldn`t camp here ever again. Serac avalanche danger is obvious.
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Route up to Dikiy Pass (5200m) required serac climbing.
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Normal route follows the West rib on the right.

 

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Long day from the C1 to C3 (5800m).

 

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Some teams camp at Dikiy Pass. It`s safer, but elevation gain is too small fo the second day. BC´s far away!

 

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We slept in a snow cave at 5800 meters. Warm and the best option to survive on Pik Pobeda.

 

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Day three took us up to C4 (6400m). Plan was to reach C5 on the upper ridge, but snowstorm forced us to camp lower.

 

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That night became a battle against the wind. 100km/h winds hammered our tents. Eventually joined Iranian team. Barely managed to avoid real epic. The whole thing was about to become too dangerous. I returned back to BC next day.

 

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Khan Tengri!

Big national teams of Russia and Ukraine summited Pobeda in hurricane winds, one died and other were half dead. There´s many ways to climb these peaks. I think I have found my own!

Two summers in the Central-Asia teached a lot. I definately will return to climb Kommunizma and Pobeda, but for now, more technically challenging objectives has my interest.

 

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