Author Archives: juho

Hot ice in the Alps – Glacenost and Shiva Lingam

Ice climbing conditions in the Alps looked very promising in January. I deciced to hit the Cham once again. RIVE DROITE On a first day of the trip we headed to the Rive Droite, which is normally quite hazardous place to climb due to avalanche danger. Skiing the exposed slope to the rappel point wasn’t probably the best place to ...

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Les Droites – Ginat

For years I’ve been avoiding to climb “Ginat” on the Les Droites N face. I always thought it would be a boring ice climb without interesting sections. And it’s very popular when it’s in fat conditions, which isn’t that good when climbing a direct ice route. After our hike to see black and powdery Grandes Jorasses on Tuesday we were ...

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Grande Rocheuse – Late to Say I’m Sorry

Every Autumn people start to get psyched for the mixed season. When the first snowflakes hit warm alpine faces speculation begins. Could it be in condition? Is that ice or just powder snow? Rare are those, whom are keen to go first and throw the dice. But when first reports of good conditions hit the internet, routes become busy. I ...

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Grandes Jorasses – Walker Spur

Walker Spur was in a great late summer nick and parties climb it as late as 10th of September. I was very keen to get back on to Jorasses myhtical N face after two years. Luckily Tim Oliver shared the idea and so we went and climb it on the 8.9. Tim wrote such an excellent blog about our climb, ...

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Solo traverse of the Verte

Late summer heat wave hit the Alps making high rock routes back into condition. During the past two weeks I’ve been mainly “multipitch cragging”. Routes like Fermeture eclair, L’echo des Alpages, Contamine on the Lachenal were all good fun, but I was constantly thinking parties on the Walker and the Freney – I should be there too. I had also ...

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Rochefort – Jorasses traverse

Ridge line between Col du Geant and Col du Hirondelles often catches your eyes and imagination. You have heard stories about the dizzying exposure, loose rock and challenging conditions on the ridge. Altogether Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses traverse is one of the classic ridge climbs in the massif. It’s basicly a border line walk at high altitude between France and Italy. ...

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Aiguille Verte // Brown-Patey

Some describe Brown-Patey as their favourite route in the Mont Blanc massif. That’s very promising when you are picking a line for the next good weather spell. Actually it was one of the big routes on my “to do” list this summer. It’s not climbed very often and it combines three very diffirent aspects of climbing. Plus, it covers 1300 ...

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Mont Blanc // Bonatti-Oggioni, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard

We had just climbed the Brown-Patey over two days and needed some rest in the valley. Unfortunately (for our legs) forecast promised three sunny days before stormy period. You just have to use these windows if you want get something done. Tim’s friends had climbed the Bonatti-Oggioni few days earlier and they reported icy chimneys high on the route. We ...

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Three months of cragging

Since mid-March I´ve been cragging around SE-Finland quite a lot. I decided to skip spring in the Alps due to unfavorable climbing conditions. Of course one can always climb something, but getting stronger on rock seemed to fit better to my plans to spend next winter season in Patagonia. Weather`s been suprisingly good, almost too warm in my opinion. Rising amount of ...

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Eiger – Heckmair 1938

It´s a rare thing to meet a climber who wouldn´t have dreamed about climbing the biggest north face in the Alps. During the last 80 years Eigerwand has played a big role in the deveploment of climbing, as the climbing worlds leading names have pushed the bounderies further. The first ascent in 1938, Ueli Steck`s speed records, Harlin directtissima, Dean Potter´s ...

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