Author Archives: juho

Grandes Jorasses – Walker Spur

Walker Spur was in a great late summer nick and parties climb it as late as 10th of September. I was very keen to get back on to Jorasses myhtical N face after two years. Luckily Tim Oliver shared the idea and so we went and climb it on the 8.9. Tim wrote such an excellent blog about our climb, ...

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Solo traverse of the Verte

Late summer heat wave hit the Alps making high rock routes back into condition. During the past two weeks I’ve been mainly “multipitch cragging”. Routes like Fermeture eclair, L’echo des Alpages, Contamine on the Lachenal were all good fun, but I was constantly thinking parties on the Walker and the Freney – I should be there too. I had also ...

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Rochefort – Jorasses traverse

Ridge line between Col du Geant and Col du Hirondelles often catches your eyes and imagination. You have heard stories about the dizzying exposure, loose rock and challenging conditions on the ridge. Altogether Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses traverse is one of the classic ridge climbs in the massif. It’s basicly a border line walk at high altitude between France and Italy. ...

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Aiguille Verte // Brown-Patey

Some describe Brown-Patey as their favourite route in the Mont Blanc massif. That’s very promising when you are picking a line for the next good weather spell. Actually it was one of the big routes on my “to do” list this summer. It’s not climbed very often and it combines three very diffirent aspects of climbing. Plus, it covers 1300 ...

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Mont Blanc // Bonatti-Oggioni, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard

We had just climbed the Brown-Patey over two days and needed some rest in the valley. Unfortunately (for our legs) forecast promised three sunny days before stormy period. You just have to use these windows if you want get something done. Tim’s friends had climbed the Bonatti-Oggioni few days earlier and they reported icy chimneys high on the route. We ...

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Three months of cragging

Since mid-March I´ve been cragging around SE-Finland quite a lot. I decided to skip spring in the Alps due to unfavorable climbing conditions. Of course one can always climb something, but getting stronger on rock seemed to fit better to my plans to spend next winter season in Patagonia. Weather`s been suprisingly good, almost too warm in my opinion. Rising amount of ...

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Eiger – Heckmair 1938

It´s a rare thing to meet a climber who wouldn´t have dreamed about climbing the biggest north face in the Alps. During the last 80 years Eigerwand has played a big role in the deveploment of climbing, as the climbing worlds leading names have pushed the bounderies further. The first ascent in 1938, Ueli Steck`s speed records, Harlin directtissima, Dean Potter´s ...

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Matterhorn – Schmidt

In 2010 I stood under the Matterhorn, staring it’s perfect looking profile. Dreaming, that some day I might have a chance to climb it. I didn’t even imagined climbing the north face. It was my first trip to the Alps. In October 2015 circle closed. On the summit of the Matterhorn with no wind, Valais Alps spreading as far as eye ...

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Eugster Direct

Autumn 2015. Very dry and hot summer had left deep scars into glaciers and melted iternal ice. Everyone complained about bad conditions. “No north face action this time.” I disagreed. There were photos in Instagram which showed clearly the shining neve line up to Eugster Direct`s deep couloir. A perfect acclimatization route!   We flew to the Malpensa on the 1st of ...

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3x7000m // Khan Tengri, Korzhenevskaya and Pik Lenin

In 2014 and 2015 I spend summer months attempting the legendary “Snow Leopard-peaks challenge” in the heart of Central-Asia. Five mountains reach the altitude of 7000 meters in the area of former Soviet union: Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m) and Pik Kommunizma (7495m) in Tajikistan and Pik Lenin (7134m), Khan Tengri (7010m) and Pik Pobeda (7439m) in Kyrgyzstan. The person who climbs all ...

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