Author Archives: juho

Matterhorn – Schmidt

In 2010 I stood under the Matterhorn, staring it’s perfect looking profile. Dreaming, that some day I might have a chance to climb it. I didn’t even imagined climbing the north face. It was my first trip to the Alps. In October 2015 circle closed. On the summit of the Matterhorn with no wind, Valais Alps spreading as far as eye ...

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Eugster Direct

Autumn 2015. Very dry and hot summer had left deep scars into glaciers and melted iternal ice. Everyone complained about bad conditions. “No north face action this time.” I disagreed. There were photos in Instagram which showed clearly the shining neve line up to Eugster Direct`s deep couloir. A perfect acclimatization route!   We flew to the Malpensa on the 1st of ...

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3x7000m // Khan Tengri, Korzhenevskaya and Pik Lenin

In 2014 and 2015 I spend summer months attempting the legendary “Snow Leopard-peaks challenge” in the heart of Central-Asia. Five mountains reach the altitude of 7000 meters in the area of former Soviet union: Pik Korzhenevskaya (7105m) and Pik Kommunizma (7495m) in Tajikistan and Pik Lenin (7134m), Khan Tengri (7010m) and Pik Pobeda (7439m) in Kyrgyzstan. The person who climbs all ...

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Les Droites // Barnoud-Marsigny

Droites north face hosts some of the longest pure ice routes in the Mont Blanc massif. I have never been very keen to get on to those, because route finding is easy, climbing straightforwad and similar all the way up. NE face in turn is a diffirent game with it´s much more challenging mixed lines. Escpecially the Chezc route incited us.   ...

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Madness Tres Mince

Can alpine climbing be pleasant and relaxed? I have a bad habbit to aim big every time I go to alpine. Reason for that might be the place where I live. In the land of single pitch routes: Finland. Anyway Juha had just arrived to Chamonix and we decided to start with something easy. Charlet-Ghillini and Madness tres mince were supposed ...

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Col du Plan and Fil a Plomb

What`s the best way to acclimatise around Mont Blanc massif? One of my favourites is to climb Aiguille du Midi`s north face. Short approach combined with a cable-car descent couldn´t be easier.   Col du Plan N face At the begining of March I´d just arrived to the village the previous night and deciced to climb Fil a Plomb as ...

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Grandes Jorasses // Colton-MacIntyre

North face of the Grandes Jorasses represents dreams, ambitions, tragedy and mystique. Alpinists through the decades have become addicted to the face. Once in a while they return back to the shadow and climb out to the light again. Nick Colton and Alex MacIntyre invented or, at least strengthened light and fast alpinism with a brilliant first ascent of the ...

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Dent Blanche – North Face Direct

Dent Blanche`s north face caught my attention imediately when I stood on the summit of Weisshorn, after a quick solo via classic east ridge route. Moderate snowfield climbing seemed to end to the impressive mixed headwall. I wanted to get to that face as soon as possible. Three months later me and Juha Sillanpää setled in for the night at Col ...

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