Grande Rocheuse – Late to Say I’m Sorry

Every Autumn people start to get psyched for the mixed season. When the first snowflakes hit warm alpine faces speculation begins. Could it be in condition? Is that ice or just powder snow? Rare are those, whom are keen to go first and throw the dice. But when first reports of good conditions hit the internet, routes become busy. I like to climb when conditions are definitely good, but I’m also optimistic and too keen to wait for weeks.

Year ago we attempted Robert Jasper’s “Late to Say I’m Sorry” (ED-, 1000m, M6, WI5+) on the N face of Grande Rocheuse, but we had to bail half way up the face. Since, this route has been on my list. It has only six pitches of proper climbing on a 1000m face, but those six are quite committing and worth of a long day. It got plenty of attention between 2010 – 2012, due to Jon Griffits blog. Most of the teams rapped back down after finishing the hard pitches, but that’s not alpinism. You gotta summit!

I ran up to Argentiere glacier week ago and saw the shining line of the Late to Say I’m Sorry. Three days later I went to climb it with Sami Modenius.

The line of “Late to Say I´m Sorry”.

 

Relaxed walk in.
Relaxed walk in.

Luckily Lognan’s lift was still open as it shortens the approach quite a lot. We deciced to bivouac on the glacier instead of staying at the refuge, which was open too. Relaxed evening staring our route passed by and soon it was time to wake up and start walking again. Approach was in okey nick, just 25cm of new snow, but easy to navigate in a dark. We used left-hand side approach, cause walking slowly under the Cordier’s seracs wasn’t an option.

Glacier bivi.
Glacier bivi.
Winter on the N faces, summer on the S side.
Winter on the N faces, summer on the S side.

At 6am we began simul climbing the first 500m of Couturier couloir. First some snow and then suprisingly good ice. I expected more black ice, but after two hours we were already below the first pitch.

Two long simul blocks led to the climbing part. Aplenglow was stunning!
Two long simul blocks led to the climbing part. Aplenglow was stunning!

Two easy 60m pitches led to the crux. From afar it looked that it could be possible to avoid the roof via variation on the left, but ice was too thin to be climbed, so I had to go for the infamous roof as it was my turn to lead. The roof was easy M6, but then I had to chooce between M7 crack and steep corner with ice in the back. I went for the ice. Next ten minutes were long as I carefully balanced upwards. It was “no fall” zone due to unexisting gear. And the ice was loose. Monopoints searched tiny edges from the wall, because I couldn’t put my weight for the axes. Very intense! The pitch was one of the best I’ve done on the mountains, but lack of gear reduces the quality a bit.

Sami coming up the first easy pitch.
Sami coming up the first easy pitch.

Remaining three pitches were excellent and very aesthetic ice climbing. Thin ice line middle of the blank rock face is the thing were dreams are made of. Shame it ended too fast!

Thin ice also after the crux. Sami leading.
Thin ice also after the crux. Sami leading.
Juho climbing 80° ice.
Juho climbing 80° ice. Picture: Sami M.

Last 250 meters to the summit of Grande Rocheuse were tiring and we actually had to climb two more pitches due to hard ice. Then it was only downhill to the Chamonix. Rapping the Whymper and walking all the way back to the village at night was torturing affair.

Nice route all in all. Season’s on!

On the summit of the Grande Rocheuse. My second time in a month.
On the summit of the Grande Rocheuse. My second time in a month.

 

 

Grandes Jorasses – Walker Spur

Walker Spur was in a great late summer nick and parties climb it as late as 10th of September. I was very keen to get back on to Jorasses myhtical N face after two years. Luckily Tim Oliver shared the idea and so we went and climb it on the 8.9.

Tim wrote such an excellent blog about our climb, so it would be waste of time to repeat the story.  Go and read it here!

Walker Spur was first climbed in 1938 by Cassin’s party and I have to wonder their courage and vision to find a such a complex line through the biggest N face of the Mont Blanc massif. It has some loose rocks at points, but solid rock on the steep parts and fun mixed pitches make you forget the choss. Very classic alpine climb after all!

PS. Sorry about the picture quality. My camera was broken and I had to use my phone.

Leschaux hut is the starting point for the Jorasses N face climbs.
Leschaux hut is the starting point for the Jorasses N face climbs.
Mythical face!
Mythical face!
After 2:00am. start from the hut we started climbing aroung 4:00am. Tim crossing the schrund.
After 2:00 am. start from the hut we started climbing around 4:00 am. Tim crossing the schrund.
Easy angled slabs at Ice bands. Rebuffat corner was climbed in a dark.
Easy angled slabs at Ice bands. Rebuffat corner was climbed in a dark.
Tim climbing the 75m diedre.
Tim climbing the 75m diedre.
Tim starting up the Black slabs.
Tim starting up the Black slabs.
An excellent 5c pitch to reach the arete. Tim follows.
An excellent 5c pitch to reach the arete. Tim follows.
Long simul-climb section on the arete.
Long simul-climb section on the arete.
Tim heading up the Neve triangulaire.
Tim heading up the Neve triangulaire.
Louis Laurent in the Red chimneys. We wait our turn.
Louis Laurent in the Red chimneys. We wait our turn.
Tim and Karl following in the Red chimneys. Ropes everywhere.
Tim and Karl following in the Red chimneys. Ropes everywhere.
French team about to reach the Red chimneys.
French team about to reach the Red chimneys.
Tim climbing towards Tour Rouge.
Tim climbing towards Tour Rouge.
On the summit!
On the summit!
Great late afternoon views over the playground.
Great late afternoon views over the playground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Solo traverse of the Verte

Late summer heat wave hit the Alps making high rock routes back into condition. During the past two weeks I’ve been mainly “multipitch cragging”. Routes like Fermeture eclair, L’echo des Alpages, Contamine on the Lachenal were all good fun, but I was constantly thinking parties on the Walker and the Freney – I should be there too. I had also this idea of soloing the Grand Montets arete on the Aiguille Verte. On 1st September I went for it.

Grand Montets arete is the left-hand skyline.
Grand Montets arete is the left-hand skyline.

First cabin was a bit late and I was able to start climbing at 8:45 from the GM top station. Short glacier approach led to the ridge of Petite Aiguille Verte, where the route properly begins. Traversing loose ledges on the Nant Blanc side wasn’t too pleasant, but cairns marked the way and I made quick progres, reaching the notch before Pointe Farrar in 1,5 hours.

Route finding looked harder than it really is.
Route finding looked harder than it really is.
Spikey ridge!
Spikey ridge!

I climbed through a slab and a steep grade 4 chimney to the summit of Pointe Carree. Then two abseils brought me to a another notch. I put crampons on and climbed beautiful ice runnel back to the ridge. The following section was verglassed, so I skipped the initial slabs of Pointe Segone, and traversed loose ground on the N side to the Col du Nant Blanc.

Views down to Argentiere basin were great.
Views down to Argentiere basin were great.
Nice ice runnel led back to ridge.
Nice ice runnel led back to ridge.
At Col du Nant Blanc. Snow section begins here.
At Col du Nant Blanc. Snow section begins here.

Snow conditions were almost perfect at the calotte and I summited the Aiguille Verte after 4 hours leaving the lift station. As the day was windless and visibility good, I continued to the Aiguille du Jardin ticking the Grande Rocheuse on the way too. Three 4000m peaks in a hour!

Had to cross one big crevasse.
Had to cross one big crevasse.
On the summit of the Aiguille Verte. Second time this summer.
On the summit of the Aiguille Verte. Second time this summer.
Verte's summit arete seen from the Grande Rocheuse.
Verte’s summit arete seen from the Grande Rocheuse.
Very alpine terrain to be climbed. Aiguille du Jardin on the left.
Very alpine terrain to be climbed. Aiguille du Jardin on the left.
Just below the summit of Aiguille du Jardin.
Just below the summit of Aiguille du Jardin.

The most elegant way to finish the day was to descent the Arete du Jardin and complete traverse of the mountain. I made 6 rappels and down climbed between where the terrain allowed to do so. The upper couloir was in a shade, so it was relatively safe despite the loose ground. Luckily I had enough cord to re-build the rappel stations as they were damaged by the rockfall.

Halfway down the couloir stay on the climbers left, it’s the safest area! In the end I had to downclimb 100 meters of rotten snow in the middle of the gully to get down. Finally I rappeled over the schrund (anchor under the overhang) to gain the safety of the glacier. I don’t recommend to do Arete du Jardin. Maybe in snowy conditions, but not late in the summer. GM ridge is much better!

Wild place this is. The descet couloir in the middle.
Wild place this is. The descet couloir in the middle.

Running down to Couvercle took about 40 minutes. Midway down the glacier I catched Helias Millerioux with two clients moving incredibly fast. They had climbed the Moine ridge and still got the speed!

Speedy run down the glacier.
Speedy run down the glacier.

It was awsome to move fast on the mountains again. GM arete is pretty good ridge climbing route actually and I’m happy that I did it finally.

Aiguille Verte, Grande Rocheuse and Aiguille du Jardin.
Aiguille Verte, Grande Rocheuse and Aiguille du Jardin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rochefort – Jorasses traverse

Ridge line between Col du Geant and Col du Hirondelles often catches your eyes and imagination. You have heard stories about the dizzying exposure, loose rock and challenging conditions on the ridge. Altogether Rochefort – Grandes Jorasses traverse is one of the classic ridge climbs in the massif. It’s basicly a border line walk at high altitude between France and Italy.

The most relaxed way to do it is to take the first lift of the morning to Helbronner either from Chamonix or Courmayeur. Then climb the Rochefort part of the traverse to the Canzio bivouac hut which is located at Col des Jorasses. No sleeping bags needed due to amount of blankets.

On the second day start early to climb the Jorasses part of the traverse. You should be able to summit Walker in 8 hours if conditions are good. It took us 6,5h.

Descent via the normal route to the Boccalatte refugio can be a nightmare. Last time I did it in the dark in 7 hours. Now in a daylight 3 hours was close. There’s a guardian at the refuge, so make sure to book beds for the night. He’s probably the friendliest guardian ever, though.

I’ll tell the story with pictures this time, but as a gear-wise, 50m single rope is enough. Belays on the hardest pitches on Pointe Young are bolted and also the Rochefort traverse is fully equiped. Light weight rack will do.

 

Expensive cable car ride over the Vallee Blanche. I try to avoid this usually.
Expensive cable car ride over the Vallee Blanche. I try to avoid this usually.
The real ridge climbing starts after the Dent du Geant.
The real ridge climbing starts after the Dent du Geant.
Good track allowed quick progress. Loads of people on the ridge.
Good track allowed quick progress. Loads of people on the ridge.
After Aiguille du Rochefort we passed three parties to make sure we get beds. It's all about tactics you know. Wise move in the end as 17 climbers is a bit too much for the 8 men bivy. Some had to sleep outside.
After Aiguille du Rochefort we passed three parties to make sure we get beds. It’s all about tactics you know. Wise move in the end as 17 climbers is a bit too much for the 8 men bivy. Some had to sleep outside.
Between Dome du Rochefort and Calotte we found nice rocky sections.
Between Dome du Rochefort and Calotte we found nice rocky sections.
Tim heads towards Col des Jorasses.
Tim heads towards Col des Jorasses.
Canzio bivouac at Col des Jorasses.
Canzio bivouac at Col des Jorasses.
Canzio bivouac. No need to carry sleeping gear. Enough warm blankets in the hut.
Canzio bivouac. No need to carry sleeping gear. Enough warm blankets in the hut.
Probably the busiest night in the history of the bivy. 17 climbers.
Probably the busiest night in the history of the bivy. 17 climbers.
Dry rock at Pointe Young in the morning.
Dry rock at Pointe Young in the morning.
Looking down the N face. Stoked for the upcoming mixed season. I've got a good feeling about this year. N face, we'll meet again. Very soon!
Looking down the N face. Stoked for the upcoming mixed season. I’ve got a good feeling about this year. N face, we’ll meet again. Very soon!
Tim climbing down from the summit of Pointe Marguerite.
Tim climbing down from the summit of Pointe Marguerite.
Exposure. Actually I expected more airy moments.
Exposure. Actually I expected more airy moments.
Climbing gets easier after Pointe Croz. Also quality of the rock reduces.
Climbing gets easier after Pointe Croz. Also quality of the rock reduces.
Walker! 6 new 4000ers bagged!
Walker! 6 new 4000ers bagged!
The playground. So many good memories, but so much to do.
The playground. So many good memories, but so much to do.

 

 

 

Aiguille Verte // Brown-Patey

Some describe Brown-Patey as their favourite route in the Mont Blanc massif. That’s very promising when you are picking a line for the next good weather spell. Actually it was one of the big routes on my “to do” list this summer. It’s not climbed very often and it combines three very diffirent aspects of climbing. Plus, it covers 1300 vertical meters of rad alpine terrain on the Sans Nom face of the Aiguille Verte.

The first part of the route climbs 400m high rock spur to reach the hanging glacier. Most teams bivouac on the ledges to climb the upper face next day. The second, ice and snow climbing part ends to a “belle goulotte” also known as “Marsigny-Mohr exit” to the Breche de Sans Nom. Then you just climb the Arete Sans Nom to the summit of Verte. Original route follows steep cracks more on the left, but the most natural and enjoyable line takes the Marsigny-Mohr variant.

A big, four day storm had just hit the massif, bringing snow as low as 2000m in the middle of July! I was very eager to climb something longer than basic Midi S face stuff and so was Chamonix based Tim Oliver. Most of the climbers would have stayed away from the snowy Sans Nom face, but luckily we shared the idea of climbing the Brown-Patey. We knew that if we wait any longer, it will become too hot to climb on the face any time soon. So, we were off on the first clear day after the storm.

Tim breaking the trail from GM.
Tim breaking the trail from GM.
Wintery Sans Nom face and Les Drus.
Wintery Sans Nom face and Les Drus.

Approach was quite relaxed 2 hour downhill from the GM lift. Nant Blanc glacier was filled with snow and the couloir leading to the glacier in good condition. At places there were 20cm of new snow which didn’t promise very quick climb to the bivouac area. Actually seemingly strong winds hitting the summit and creating big spindrifts made the situation very wintery. How strange!

Four rappels down to Nant Blanc glacier.
Four rappels down to Nant Blanc glacier.
Nant Blanc glacier felt remote despite the short approach.
Nant Blanc glacier felt remote despite the short approach.

In a proper summer conditions the spur should be doable in a few hours, but now everything was covered with snow. Dry-tooling 5b slabs? Yes, please. The crux 6a pitch was probably the easiest of the day as it was free of snow. At 10pm we finaly reached the bivouac site. It took ages to climb 400 meters!

The fun begins. First grade 5 pitch promised difficult conditions. Tim following.
The fun begins. First grade 5 pitch promised difficult conditions. Tim following.
Snowy 5b slab with spaced protection was probably the crux of the first day. Tim climbed it without crampons. I dry-tooled.
Snowy 5b slab with spaced protection was probably the crux of the first day. Tim climbed it without crampons. I dry-tooled.
Another spicey slab!
Another spicey slab!
Actually the climbing itself was really fun, but we just expected shorter day.
Actually the climbing itself was really fun, but we just expected shorter day.

I didn’t sleep very well on a crumbly ledge, which was a shame, because we still had another long day ahead. At 6am we begun simul-climbing the next section of the face. Now conditions were good and we quickly climbed all to way to the Breche de Sans Nom swaping leads only one time. It felt great to be middle of the big alpine face again.

Les Drus!
Les Drus!
Tim entering to the Marsigny-Mohr couloir.
Tim entering to the Marsigny-Mohr couloir.

However, the lower part of the Sans Nom ridge offered more difficulties and we pitched the whole thing. Blocky mixed climbing combined with snowy cracks on smooth walls. I violently french-freed the 6b crack to save time. With rock shoes it wouldn’t be a problem to free it, but you have to sensible. And how there can be 6b rock climbing on a D graded alpine route? Time to change grade for the Sans Nom ridge mates!

The upper arete is spectacular – golden granite towers rising from a knife-edge snow ridge. Absolutely stunning! Wind was still raging strong and at times, it was hard to keep the balance. Soon we stood on the summit of Aiguille Verte. It had been a beautiful trip to climb one of my favourite peaks. I had tried it three times in the past. As a young boy I tried to solo the Whymper, but bad conditions forced to go down. A year later my plan was to solo the Couturier, but again conditions weren’t favourable. And last Autumn my friend got injured slightly while climbing the “Late to Say I’m Sorry” on the N face. Such a good feeling to reach the summit after all those failures!

The only photo I took after the Breche de Sans Nom. Very windy day!
The only photo I took after the Breche de Sans Nom. Very windy day!
First rappel from the col.
First rappel from the col.

The descent via Whymper couloir was uneventful. Untracked Moine glacier offered nice sunset views over the Jorasses as we walked down to Couvercle. Thanks for the late-evening cake and soup! Another beautiful day on the mountains was over!

My favourite face in the massif!
My favourite face in the massif!

 

Mont Blanc // Bonatti-Oggioni, Pilier Rouge du Brouillard

We had just climbed the Brown-Patey over two days and needed some rest in the valley. Unfortunately (for our legs) forecast promised three sunny days before stormy period. You just have to use these windows if you want get something done.

Tim’s friends had climbed the Bonatti-Oggioni few days earlier and they reported icy chimneys high on the route. We figured out that couple of days with freezing level around 4500m would melt the ice away.

Bonatti-Oggioni and the never-ending Brouillard ridge.

So, on the 19th of July we drove to Val Veny and started hiking upwards at 5am. It was actually really pleasant six hour walk to the Eccles bivouac. We heard that huts were full the previous night and people had to sleep outside. Fingers crossed! The lower hut was already full, but we got places from the upper one. Bob and Lee from Wales shared the place and the idea of climbing the Pilier Rouge with us.

Tim just about to reach the Brouillard glacier.
Tim just about to reach the Brouillard glacier.
Mont Blanc's S side is wild!
Mont Blanc’s S side is wild!
Good food at the bivouac.
Good food at the bivouac.

Mont Blanc’s S face truly is a remote arena of high altitude rock and ice climbs. Good looking lines everywhere! In my opinion, after GJ’s N face, this is the thing in the massif.

Pilier Rouge du Brouillard itself stands out as a biggest tower above the Brouillard glacier. Who wouldn’t want to climb that? Bonatti-Oggioni follows a line of weakness venturing up the pillar on it’s left-hand side. Once you top out the pillar there’s still several hours of loose ridge climbing to be done before the summit of Mont Blanc. A perfect mountaineering route.

On Wednesday morning team Wales left at 4am and we started an hour later. Glacier to the foot of the route was nice and easy walk due to amount of snow this summer. We catched the boys at the first bolted stand and climbed rest of the day just behind them. No route finding pressure for us then!

The first proper pitch is a nice 6a crack, which wakes you up. I somehow managed to fill my pack with heavy stuff and leading the wake-up pitch felt a bit odd as a first thing in the morning. We changed leads constantly due to easy route finding and climbing being well in our limits.

Tim seconding the wake-up pitch.
Tim seconding the wake-up pitch.

Excellent crack pitches followed each other and in 5 hours we topped the Pilier Rouge. We did find some ice in the upper chimneys, but all in all it was good training for the Patagonia.

Beautiful golden granite!
Beautiful golden granite!
Icy cracks. Bob from the team Wales leading.
Icy cracks. Bob from the team Wales leading.
Tim traversing from the top of the pillar.
Tim traversing from the top of the pillar.

From the reports of previous parties we knew what to expect after the pillar. It was back to crampon mood again. Some very loose ground led to the summit of Pointe Luigi Amadeo (4460m) where we stopped for a brew at 2pm.

Loose, really loose rocks!
Loose, really loose rocks!
Brew stop at Pointe Luigi Amadeo.
Brew stop at Pointe Luigi Amadeo.

Brouillard ridge is loose, exposed and not very nice if you ask me. Views are great though, but it just keeps coming. Luckily the whole ridge was in good condition.

Brouillard ridge.
Brouillard ridge.

Quick pictures on the summit of Mont Blanc at 6pm and four hour downhill to the Nid d’Aigle refuge. Crossing the death couloir was again, the scariest thing of the day.

On the summit of Mont Blanc!
On the summit of Mont Blanc!

Climbing the Bonatti-Oggioni proved to be a really fun way to summit Mont Blanc. Can’t wait to return to the south side!

Three months of cragging

Since mid-March I´ve been cragging around SE-Finland quite a lot. I decided to skip spring in the Alps due to unfavorable climbing conditions. Of course one can always climb something, but getting stronger on rock seemed to fit better to my plans to spend next winter season in Patagonia.

Weather`s been suprisingly good, almost too warm in my opinion. Rising amount of climbers in South Carelia meant that it was easier to find people whom were keen to climb with a rope. Bouldering can be fun, and it´s good here, but you won´t climb any big alpine route with boulderers endurance.

Busiest weeks meant five days of climbing and two days of brushing new routes. Plan was to take some harder sport project, but eventually climbed just meters. Though “Tarzan Bundolo, 7c” felt doable and I actually did all the moves in a session and managed to climb it in two parts.

My camera was broken in May and I got it fixed just two weeks ago, so these pictures are random shots along the way.

IMG_1080
Season began at Olhava. Easter weekend went smoothly in a sunshine.
The Line in Finland - "Kantti"!
The Line in Finland – “Kantti”!
Busy Easter at Olhava!
Busy Easter at Olhava!

 

Aleksi had a long battle with "Flashback, 7a" at Haukkavuori.
Aleksi had a long battle with “Flashback” 7a at Haukkavuori.
Juho balancing on "4.20, 7a+".
Juho balancing on “4.20” 7a+.
Kalle and lower part of the "4.20".
Kalle and lower part of the “4.20”.
Kalle crushing "Flashback", his first 7a.
Kalle crushing “Flashback”, his first 7a.
Stellar spring weather!
Stellar spring weather!
Kalle jamming somewhere in Savo.
Kalle jamming somewhere in Savo.
Aleksi climbing a thin crack line of "Kolokelmi".
Aleksi climbing a thin crack line of “Kolokelmi”.
Top-rope soloing "Kivinen" 7a at Linnavuori.
Top-rope soloing “Kivinen” 7a at Linnavuori.

 

Juho did the first ascent to "Halkeamasoturi" 6b+.
Juho did the first ascent to “Halkeamasoturi” 6b+.
Andrej ticks "Valdemar" 6c.
Andrej ticks “Valdemar” 6c.
Andrej having fun on "Paranoid" 7a+.
Andrej having fun on “Paranoid” 7a+.
Tollonvuori action. Aleksi climbing suprisingly powerful "Toinen nainen" 6c. FA holder, Mikko Haataja belaying.
Tollonvuori action. Aleksi climbing suprisingly powerful “Toinen nainen” 6c. FA holder, Mikko Haataja belaying.
Juho making a 2nd ascent to "For those about to rock climb". Lower crack was soaking wet!
Juho making a 2nd ascent to “For those about to rock climb”. Lower crack was soaking wet!
Andrej enjoying "Juhannustanssi".
Andrej enjoying “Juhannustanssi”.
"Wot Gorilla" 6c and "Number One" 7a+ at Mustavuori are popular routes to start with.
“Wot Gorilla” 6c and “Number One” 7a+ at Mustavuori are popular routes to start with.
Andrej and unique "Kyynselkä".
Andrej and unique “Kyynselkä” at Turunvuori.
"Siili" is one of the better sport routes at Revenne.
“Siili” is one of the better sport routes at Revenne.
Juho jamming his way up on "Urkupillit".
Juho jamming his way up on “Urkupillit”.
2nd ascent of "Split" 7a at Tollonvuori.
2nd ascent of “Split” 7a at Tollonvuori.

 

In two weeks I´ll head back to my own element, which is alpine. Four months in Chamonix ahead! Hopefully all this rock climbing pays back.

Thank you all crag fellows. Such a fun spring it was!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Eiger – Heckmair 1938

Eigerwand and Mönch`s N face.
Eigerwand and Mönch`s N face.

It´s a rare thing to meet a climber who wouldn´t have dreamed about climbing the biggest north face in the Alps. During the last 80 years Eigerwand has played a big role in the deveploment of climbing, as the climbing worlds leading names have pushed the bounderies further. The first ascent in 1938, Ueli Steck`s speed records, Harlin directtissima, Dean Potter´s free base climbs and Jeff Lowe`s Metanoia to name a few remarkable achievements on the face. Is there any other alpine face in the world with a such a rich history?

It was first weekend of November when the news from the excellent conditions of the north face hit the internet. Instantly I started to search a partner for the next week as forecast promised a long lasting high pressure to Bernese Oberland. Kalle Vuorenmaa deciced to skip less important school work and come along. We booked flights to Zurich on Sunday and already bivied at the Eigerglectcher station on Wednesday.

Eigergletscher bivi pre-fox attack.
Eigergletscher bivi pre-fox attack.

It was hard to gain any sleep due to angry fox, which disturbed by trying to steal my packpack couple of times. Before midnight we were on our way to the route. A bit too early start, but we wanted to get down in a daylight.

We soloed first couple hundred meters to the Difficult crack, which is the first real obstacle on the route. Unsecure nature of climbing became familiar. Sloppy holds and slipery limestone was far from the Finnish granite. I led the steep crack without too much fuss. Except the Difficult crack was now front of me. We had climbed some kind of a direct variation without the last traverse from the left.

More easier terrain under the Rote Fluh appeared and we began a long simul climb section which ended to the Death bivouac. Of course we swapped leads twice when draws run out, but didn´t belay any of the climbing in pitches. Hinterstoiser traverse, Ice Hose and Flat Iron were all iced up and all floated by.

Kalle belaying at the Death bivouac.
Kalle belaying at the Death bivouac.
Sunrise over the Swiss foothills.
Sunrise over the Swiss foothills.

We melted some snow at the Death bivouac when pair of Swiss climbers passed. They were the only people on the route we saw, but later on we find out that the route was full of climbers.

At sunrise we continued the climb through the Ramp. The most entertaining pitch was the Waterfall chimney, which warm temperatures and other climbers had made a hollow and technical ice climb. Overhanging bulge needed careful climbing and went probably around WI5+. How did they climb that in 1938?

Kalle climbing the Ramp.
Kalle climbing the Ramp.

 

Juho doing tricks in the Waterfall chimney.
Juho doing tricks in the Waterfall chimney.

More historical sections followed. Brittle ledges were definately brittle and the Brittle crack supposed to be the crux. It was full of in-situ gear though. Bring enough draws and you´ll be able to belay most of the route with them.

Traverse of the Gods is one of the most legendary pitches anywhere and you can really feel the Eigerwand´s exposure on the last meters of it. We moved together all to way to Quartz crack sprinting up the White Spider as fast we could. And I can tell you our pace wasn´t very fast anymore. I balanced up a polished slab which was the real technical crux of the route.

Juho climbing the Brittle crack.
Juho climbing the Brittle crack.
Kalle and the Traverse of the Gods.
Kalle and the Traverse of the Gods.
Kalle following the Quartz crack.
Kalle following the Quartz crack.

Exit cracks offered full-on chimney stemming without pro on the first 15 meters, but eased up quickly. We took the rope off and climbed the remaining snow field and Mitellegi ridge to the summit. It was a beautiful, but windy late-afernoon. I had just completed the north face trilogy, but didn´t feel anything special. Just a bit tiredness in my legs.

This was also Kalle`s third route in the Alps, and I have to say, his alpine ticklist is pretty impressive in Finnish scale.

West face descent should be a easy two hour plod, but in the dark, climbing down short ice steps felt very odd. Zero sleep in the previos night didn´t help route finding skils and eventually we decided to bivy only 200 vertical meters from the train station.

And yes, we must return to improve our time!

Descent in a shading light!
West face descent in a shading light!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Matterhorn – Schmidt

In 2010 I stood under the Matterhorn, staring it’s perfect looking profile. Dreaming, that some day I might have a chance to climb it. I didn’t even imagined climbing the north face. It was my first trip to the Alps.

In October 2015 circle closed. On the summit of the Matterhorn with no wind, Valais Alps spreading as far as eye can see. We had just climbed the mythical north face. No other teams on the mountain. It was one of those golden moments of alpinism.

Line of the Schmidt with our belays and wrong-turn marked.
Line of the Schmidt with our belays and wrong-turn marked.

Two days earlier we sat in the Leschaux refuge eyeing the dry´ish N face of the Jorasses. Lack of ice on the Croz forced us to figure out plan B. And that was the Matterhorn. It had looked good in the webcam. Luckily the next day was still rainy and we had just enough time drive to Zermatt, and catch a last lift up to Schwarzsee. A pleasant two hour hike to the Hörnli hut`s brand new winter room crowned the busy day.

Snowy Matterhorn seen from the approach.
Snowy Matterhorn seen from the approach.
A brand new winter room of the Hörnli hut!
A brand new winter room in the Hörnli hut!

Approach to the route from the Hörnli was a quick walk. Some deep snow with one steeper section, which we soloed, brought us under the schrund. There were no tracks, we knew that route finding’s going to be difficult in the dark.

First 400 meters of 50-55° snow should go quickly, but we climbed far too left. I ended up balancing really delicate M6 bulge before noticing our mistake. Huge traverse rightwards and lost 2 hours in time later we reached the mixed section leading to the Ramp. Sugar snow seemed to be a theme of the day. Easy to climb, but impossible to protect. We belayed two easy neve pitches until joining the Ramp.

Kalle belaying the first of the two pitches leading to the Ramp.
Kalle belaying the first of the two pitches leading to the Ramp.

 

Dent Blanche!
Dent Blanche!
Kalle following as we simul-climb the Ramp. Mischabelgrat rises in the horizon.
Kalle following as we simul-climb the Ramp. Mischabelgrat in the horizon.

Middle section of the route is more interesting – steeper ice and more delicate traversing. Due to poor quality of ice and rock, terrain was again mostly unprotectable. And that’s where the grade comes I believe. You have to be able to climb moderate terrain without thinking too much. We pitched only three times overall. We had a really detailed topo, but the end of the Ramp was confusing. Just make a right trending traverse and you are able to see the icefall, which leads you to the summit snowfields. Do not follow the obvious looking couloir on the left!

Kalle climbing the last meters of the icefall.
Kalle climbing the last meters of the icefall.

Summit slopes were endless. It felt so good to reach the Zmutt ridge and the sun. We shortened the rope and scrambled slowly the last meters to the Italian summit. Matterhorn was celebrating 150 year anniversary of first ascent and I couldn´t imagine better year to climb this iconic peak.

We were slightly suprised that the Schmidt route went down that easily. It´s a long route for sure, but technical difficulties are quite low in good conditions.

Juho on the Matterhorn`s Italian side summit.
Juho on the Matterhorn`s Italian side summit.

We still had the snowy Hörnli to climb down. Fixed ropes were covered in ice and tiresome sugar snow made the going delicate. The crux of the day obviously.

We arrived to the Solvay hut (4000m) at 6pm and decided to spend cold, but safe night in the hut. The following day we continued down to Zermatt in a sunshine.

Kalle down climbing the never ending Hörnli ridge.
Kalle down climbing the never ending Hörnli ridge.

TOPO:

The best topo I´ve seen anywhere is Kletterblog`s.

Eugster Direct

Autumn 2015. Very dry and hot summer had left deep scars into glaciers and melted iternal ice. Everyone complained about bad conditions. “No north face action this time.” I disagreed. There were photos in Instagram which showed clearly the shining neve line up to Eugster Direct`s deep couloir. A perfect acclimatization route!

 

Eugster Direct´s huge couloir clearly visible.
Eugster Direct´s huge couloir clearly visible.

We flew to the Malpensa on the 1st of October and drove to the Chamonix valley. Last bin up to Plan du Aiguille had left ten minutes earlier. Evening walk up to was torturous in a warm Autumn air with heavy packs. Dehydration after the flight wasn´t helping too much either. At sunset lights we set up a tent close to the Plan d´Aiguilles station. A few hours of much needed sleep waited.

Evening hike up to Plan d´Aiguille.
Evening hike up to Plan d´Aiguille.

The very first thing in the morning was hopping on snow covered rocks. Approach was a short walk, but probably the most dangerous part of the day. Too easy to spread an ankle. We roped up top of the huge debris cone and find out that first pitch leading to the couloir proper looked really dry. It went around M5 on a loose rock,  but climbing was fun. Some judgy steep sections and one undercling traverse on a slab. Next couple hundred meters should have been a quick one hour romp, but we found deep snow. It slowed us a bit.

Kalle romping up the lower couloir.
Kalle romping up the lower couloir.

Meat of the route is a narrow gully which goes directly up the face. It can be climbed in four or five pitches and it offers wonderful mixed climbing. Conditions we encountered were superb.

The first two pitches are long, but quite easy neve. Belay on the left side of the couloir. Third pitch goes under a jammed block (in-situ piton) and contain couple of harder moves. You can also pass the block via steep ice on the right, but protection migt be non-existend. The last pitch climbs a mellow runnel and ends to a very steep step. Good hooks and pro, but it can be pumpy. It´s also possible to avoid hard climbing via left-hand exit (loose spike).

Kalle following the first neve pitch.
Kalle following the first neve pitch.
Juho heading towards the jammed block.
Juho heading towards the jammed block.

 

Juho exits the last mixed pitch.
Juho exits the last mixed pitch.

Once we climbed out from the depths weather deciced to turn against us. Last part of the route is easy snow climbing, but in high winds it felt pretty exciting. Some parties traverse under a big crevasse to the left and then climb up to the ridge, but went up the steeper terrain next to the rock. It felt like a safer option and you can just walk into Midi`s glacier tunnel top of the route. A few minutes later we were on the way down in a warm gondola. Chamonix, you know!