Les Droites // Barnoud-Marsigny

Droites north face hosts some of the longest pure ice routes in the Mont Blanc massif. I have never been very keen to get on to those, because route finding is easy, climbing straightforwad and similar all the way up. NE face in turn is a diffirent game with it´s much more challenging mixed lines. Escpecially the Chezc route incited us.   ...

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Madness Tres Mince

Can alpine climbing be pleasant and relaxed? I have a bad habbit to aim big every time I go to alpine. Reason for that might be the place where I live. In the land of single pitch routes: Finland. Anyway Juha had just arrived to Chamonix and we decided to start with something easy. Charlet-Ghillini and Madness tres mince were supposed ...

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Col du Plan and Fil a Plomb

What`s the best way to acclimatise around Mont Blanc massif? One of my favourites is to climb Aiguille du Midi`s north face. Short approach combined with a cable-car descent couldn´t be easier.   Col du Plan N face At the begining of March I´d just arrived to the village the previous night and deciced to climb Fil a Plomb as ...

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Grandes Jorasses // Colton-MacIntyre

North face of the Grandes Jorasses represents dreams, ambitions, tragedy and mystique. Alpinists through the decades have become addicted to the face. Once in a while they return back to the shadow and climb out to the light again. Nick Colton and Alex MacIntyre invented or, at least strengthened light and fast alpinism with a brilliant first ascent of the ...

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Dent Blanche – North Face Direct

Dent Blanche`s north face caught my attention imediately when I stood on the summit of Weisshorn, after a quick solo via classic east ridge route. Moderate snowfield climbing seemed to end to the impressive mixed headwall. I wanted to get to that face as soon as possible. Three months later me and Juha Sillanpää setled in for the night at Col ...

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