New routes in Northern Norway – winter 21/22

First winter season in Northern Norway was quite productive one, even though we had several bad weather periods that lasted weeks. Below you can find topos from all the biggest new routes we managed to climb. There so much more to explore. Feels like I just scratched a surface. Feel free to ask more info about locations and lines as ...

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Guardians of the Galaxy – Skjomen

I have been struggling to write trip reports lately but last Tuesday we had a day out which reminded, that climbing is more than just a sport, at least for me. I see some artistry in it, especially when climbing new terrain without any information. When you have no clue if something is climbable or are you skilled and strong ...

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Storskiva – Ørneeggen

After flying back to Europe from Pakistan in early August I headed straight to Lofoten for some relaxed rock climbing. In the end managed to do a first ascent of the West Face of Storskiva with Misha Mishin, in the far west of Lofoten islands. The whole story can be found here.

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Stora Sjöfallet – new mixed lines

Late in 2020 we opened new mixed lines at Stora Sjöfallet. At first I wasn`t going to publish these at all but due to news about Southern European climbers claiming first ascents in the area and giving quite detailed topos about their climbs, I felt like we should do it too. So here we go: From left to right: Nirvana ...

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Manitua – Grandes Jorasses

Two of the biggest, hard summer alpine routes in the Mont Blanc massif that feed my dreams are Divine Providence on Pilier d´Angle and Manitua on the north face of Grandes Jorasses. Of course you have harder rock climbs, longer ridges and link-ups, but for me, those two are the main reasons coming back to the massif in summer. Probably ...

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Traverse from Aiguille de l´M to Grepon

In the first part of August I teamed up with a Swedish climber Oscar Krumlinde for a few days. We had a few bigger ideas but as Oscar`s foot doesn´t really like rock climbing at the moment, so it would be wise to climb something with big boots. Not so easy if you want to go big in the Mont ...

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Tengkangpoche North Pillar attempt

Last Autumn I traveled to the Himalayas for the first time. Quentin Roberts (Canada), Tim Banfield (Canada) and I spent six weeks in Khumbu area of Nepal acclimaziting and trying to unlock one of the last big unclimbed lines in Nepal – the North Pillar of Tengkangpoche. We got very close of success on this magical line, but after six ...

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Haukkavuoren talvikiipeilytopo

  HAUKKAVUORI: Mixtakiipeily Rautjärven Haukkavuoren pääseinällä on sallittu vain topon osoittamalla sektorilla. Metsäsektorillakin on hyvä tarkistaa 27 Cragsistä kalliokiipeilyreittien sijainnit. Pääseinän linjat ovat monesti kunnossa vain tammi-helmikuussa. Pääseinälle on helpoin lähestyä järven jäätä pitkin talvella. Jääputouksille nopein reitti on laavun kautta, mutta monesti metsätietä ei ole aurattu, jolloin jäälähis on nopein. Harrin halkeama, M5+, FWA 2018. Ikivanhassa Haukkavuoren teknotopossa tämä ...

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Grandes Jorasses – Croz Spur with Slovenian start

During the crazy Autumn of 2014 we were below the north face of the Grandes Jorasses second time in a week. I and Juha Sillanpää had climbed the Colton-McIntyre, the north face of Dent Blanche and attempted the Supercouloir. It was my first bigger objective trip to the Alps if one can say so. We suffered a chilly and wet ...

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Aiguille du Plan – Bonnington/Tejada-Flores

Weather was looking good again last weekend and we were bouncing options what to climb in one and half days we had. West face of the Aiguille du Plan was in the leading category but should we repeat quite often climbed W face direct which looks super fun or should we get ready for hard dry tooling on the rarely ...

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