Ice climbing – Juho Knuuttila

12.02.202212.02.2022

Guardians of the Galaxy – Skjomen

I have been struggling to write trip reports lately but last Tuesday we had a day out which reminded, that climbing is more than just a sport, at least for me. I see some artistry in it, especially when climbing new terrain without any information. When you have no clue if something is climbable or are you skilled and strong enough.

In the beginning of January, when skiing Gangnesaksla couloir in Skjomen, we spotted a hanging ice drip on a steep rock wall. It looked like a glowing dot in the middle of a black, steep rock face in a morning twilight. Would it be possible to reach that?

Earlier in the season we developed some new ice climbs around Narvik but when standing under most of them, we were able to say that yeah, we can climb those but with this line it wasn’t sure at all. That was a feeling I have been missing. Trying to solve a puzzle, connecting dots, dealing with uncertainty.

I got back from Chamonix in early February, just in time to do some shift pooling at work to get a few days off before the next snowfall. After doing Søylefossen, a Spansdalen classic with Marcus Loewen on Monday it was time to attempt the line in Skjomen. Climbing conditions looked amazing!

I teamed up with Sofie Eriksson, Narvik based skilled all around climber. On Tuesday morning we drove to Sør-Skjomen playing a soundtrack from the Guardians of the Galaxy. Listening song after song from ´60s and ´70s – beating a sound of a gusting wind which lifted up waves in a fjord and dusted the road with last fluffy snow which had not been flown away earlier.

The line is located in a narrow gorge in which the left hand wall rises steeply above your head while the right hand side is more mellow and vegetated. We made quick progress hopping on boulders and cramponing up firm snow. Gorge felt quite hostile in a way and would definitely be an avalanche trap in snowy conditions, with cornices looming above.

Our intended line didn’t look any easier from below but we decided to have a look anyway. Immaculate granite sheets looked almost impassable, but maybe there was a weakness that would let us reach that hanging ice.

We simul soloed a short snow couloir to the base of an ice streak, quite far right from the upper ice we were aiming for. Armed with a jumar, single and half rope, pitons, almost double rack of cams and loads of ice screws. Idea was to climb that streak and then try to follow a ledge system for a moment before trying to find a way through a rock barrier.

Already the first pitch set up a theme for a day. Run out traverses that were as committing for the second as for the leader. Rope stretching 60m pitch with some insecure sections warmed us up.

Second pitch looked steeper and would probably be the key pitch of the route. It began to snow when I climbed a few meters of ice to reach a horizontal crack under a roof. It was pure joy to see that we would have some foot holds too, not just a blank slab for the feet. Long reaches, hooking from a flake to another while traversing more and more left at the same time. There seemed to be a weakness to follow!

A short but quite physical and steep step formed a crux of the pitch. Gear was okay but quite far apart. Laybacking a mossy flake on the roof and lifting my feet high up felt quite involved for a moment but managed to pull it off and reached a clean crack to stuff as many good cams in as wanted, to make a good belay.

Spindrifts started to fall down granite sheets while Sofie seconded the pitch. Most of the time I couldn’t see her as roofs blocked the view but heard music she was playing from her phone and singing along. When she got closer I realised that she was climbing only with one axe and crabbing icy flakes while wearing mittens. I wouldn’t even be able to climb ice with big gloves on and especially not tricky mixed.

Now we were half a pitch away from the main ice but the terrain looked mentally challenging. Snow plastered rock with some ice blobs here and there that required gentle hooking. Stubby screw in a icy crack as a only possible protection I went for it. I knew that I could climb it if I shut my brains off for a moment but still it took some time to weigh risk versus reward. Sofie didn’t say much but I felt she had enough trust that it would be okey to continue.

First secure tool placements on thick ice felt quite good. It went! But just. Probably a few weeks earlier it would have been impossible.

Exposure grew belly tingling as we climbed ice high above the gorge. In a way the ice we were on felt a bit harder than the terrain below or maybe it was just a mental exhaustion that was kicking in.

Late afternoon was getting darker as we neared the top. Sofie belayed me up the last pitch to a cave and said: `I just realised that I have climbed ice only once during last two months. Calves were burning a bit´. Quite a route to start spring climbing season!

Lights of Sør-Skjomen below and fainth glow from a half moon above illuminate our descent. We decided to rapp straight down, hoping to find enough ice or cracks to build anchors. Rappels were a bit scary as terrain was steep and rock so compact that in case of lack of ice, we would need to do some more tricks to reach the ground. Luckily it went well and in no time we were back at the car, now playing songs from teenage years.

Such a day couldn´t end in any other way than eating pizza, having a glass of wine I brought from France and finishing up with some gelato. That`t how all alpine climbing trips should end. Now we’re on our backyard mountains but the whole day felt like being further away. Maybe in another galaxy.

Guardians of the Galaxy (230m, WI5, M5+, R), FA Juho Knuuttila, Sofie Eriksson, 2022

28.10.202128.10.2021

Stora Sjöfallet – new mixed lines

Late in 2020 we opened new mixed lines at Stora Sjöfallet. At first I wasn`t going to publish these at all but due to news about Southern European climbers claiming first ascents in the area and giving quite detailed topos about their climbs, I felt like we should do it too. So here we go:

From left to right:

Nirvana (M7, Wi5), Samuli Pekkanen, 2020. 2 pitches. The line has been climbed as an icefall too but it forms very rarely.
Trendsetter (M6), Juho Knuuttila, 2020. 60m.
Japanilainen puutarha (M5+), Samuli Pekkanen, 2020. 30m
Ice Hiking (M6, Wi5), Juho Knuuttila, 2020. 30m
Mörk Finska, (M6+), Juho Knuuttila, 2020. 30m

Sector is located 150m right from the start of Grevinnan.

Juho hand jams first few meters of Trendsetter.

03.02.202003.02.2020

Tengkangpoche North Pillar attempt

Last Autumn I traveled to the Himalayas for the first time. Quentin Roberts (Canada), Tim Banfield (Canada) and I spent six weeks in Khumbu area of Nepal acclimaziting and trying to unlock one of the last big unclimbed lines in Nepal – the North Pillar of Tengkangpoche. We got very close of success on this magical line, but after six days on the wall blank slab stopped us. We reached a new highpoint at 5930m, but still we were 550m short of the summit. I´m not sure if I ever will attempt something as proud and beautiful again.

There has been so many blogs and articles about the climb that I just link them here and won´t write more.

Blog post in Finnish at Camu`s website: https://www.camu.fi/blog/tengkangpoche-pohjoispilari/

Story in English at Planetmountain: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/tengkangpoche-north-pillar-unclimbed-attempt-juho-knuuttila-quentin-roberts.html

Cutting Edge podcast: https://soundcloud.com/american-alpine-journal/a-proud-failure-quentin-roberts-on-tengkangpoche-in-nepal

I´m feel happy and privileged about the whole experience, even though the line was much different from our first and second objectives, which crashed down due to politics and other climbers climbing planned faces before us. Luckily Quentin is a boss climbing that kind of a terrain that fast! I hope I can reach the same level, though I might prefer a terrain where you can move slightly faster. 😉 Best of luck for his next attempt!

Line of our attempt and bivouacs numbered.

I and Quentin after the attempt. Picture by Tim Banfield.

16.12.201916.12.2019

Haukkavuoren talvikiipeilytopo

HAUKKAVUORI:

Mixtakiipeily Rautjärven Haukkavuoren pääseinällä on sallittu vain topon osoittamalla sektorilla. Metsäsektorillakin on hyvä tarkistaa 27 Cragsistä kalliokiipeilyreittien sijainnit. Pääseinän linjat ovat monesti kunnossa vain tammi-helmikuussa.

Pääseinälle on helpoin lähestyä järven jäätä pitkin talvella. Jääputouksille nopein reitti on laavun kautta, mutta monesti metsätietä ei ole aurattu, jolloin jäälähis on nopein.

Harrin halkeama, M5+, FWA 2018. Ikivanhassa Haukkavuoren teknotopossa tämä linja kulkee nimellä Harrin halkeama. Se on myös ensimmäinen linja minkä yritin kiivetä pääseinältä loppuvuodesta 2014. Lopulta kiipesin sen viimeisenä viiden reitin koplasta. Lähinnä siksi, koska reitin toppaukseen vaaditaan roikkuva puikko, mikä muodostuu aniharvoin. Linja jakaa osittain sporttireitti Belladonnan skrämbläysosuuden ja halutessaan kiipeilijä voi klipata kesäreitin kolme keskimmäistä pulttia. Harrin halkeaman yläosa on taas huomattavasti henkisempää mixtaa ilmavalla toppauksella.
Simola, M6, FWA 2018. Jani Lunnaksen 7b tasoinen sporttireitti on valuttaa käytännössä aina. Olikin ilo saada Janilta lupa kiivetä reitti hakuilla, sillä se on huomattavasti parempi talvi- kuin kesäreittinä. Tosin hakunpaikat eivät edes ole samat kuin kesäotteet, joten reitti on edelleen kalliokiipeiltevissä. Paras taktiikka on kiivetä puolivälin ständille varmistelemaan, sillä muuten hänkille mixtaosuudelle on köyttä ulkona melko paljon. Hänkillä on pari pulttia, jotka johtavat roikkuvalle puikolle. Toppaus joko Valojuovan tai Harrin halkeaman kautta.
Valojuova, M?, FA 2017 Seinän ensimmäinen talvireitti ja ehkä yksi Suomen parhaista ohuen jään reiteistä. Puhtaasti luonnollisilla varmistettava linja! Viimeiset metrit tarjoilevat vaikeimman kiipeilyn. Greidiä on mahdotonta antaa suht loivalle, mutta ohuelle jäälle.
Generation 2.0, M6, WI5, FA 2017. Neljäkymmentä metriä korkea kuningaslinja. Ensimmäiset 15 metriä ovat noin WI5 tasoista jääkiipeilyä hyvänä vuonna, mutta osittain Kuningasvesi sporttireitin pultteihin varmistettuna. Keskiosa on helppoa jäätä, joka johdattaa jyrkälle ja suht vaikealle stepille. Varmistuksia saa, mutta niitä pitää osata laittaa ja löytää. Tarkka ja henkinen pyllerys. Loppuun helpompaa mixtaa.
Generation 2.0 variaatio, M6, FA 2018. Ainut seinän linjoista, jonka ensinousin puhtaasti ground-up tyylillä, tarkistamatta onko reitille mahdollista saada edes varmistuksia. Alkuun ohutta jäätä katon alle, josta poikkari vasempaan hyllylle. Hyllyn jälkeen Generation 2.0:aa ylös.

+ Pääseinän vasemaan laitaan on noustu seikkailureitti, joka seurailee loivia jääportaita.

Haukkavuoren jääputoukset + metsäsektorin mixtat:

Tämä sinertävä putous löytyy pääseinästä muutama sata metriä oikealle. Jyrkkä osuus noin 8-10 metriä ja loppusläbi siihen päälle.

Toinen pikkuputouksista. Puolivälissä lähestymistä laavulta.

Heti putouksen vasemmalla puolella on mixtareitti nimeltä Kolibri, M6, FA 2016. Kuvassa linja on pulskimmillaan ikinä. Ensinousu tehtiin muutaman millimetrin paksuista jäätä pitkin.

Kolibrista vielä hiukan vasemmalle löytyy Bingo, Gringo!, M5+, FA 2016. Monasti släbin alla on kevät-talvesta lunta sen verran, että alkusläbin uskaltaa kiivetä. Katonylitykseen saakin sitten kivasti varmistuksia. Kolibrin ja Bingo, Gringon! väliin tehtiin 2019 kesällä kolme hienoa halkeamareittiä, joita ei hakuilla saa kiivetä. 27 Cragistä löytyy betat niihin.

Korkein puhdas jääputous on se ensimmäinen laavulta tultaessa. 22 metrinen WI4 tarjoilee tekemistä hetkeksi. Putouksen oikeaan laitaan muodostuu toisinaan verho, jolle pääsee pikkupilaria pitkin. Linjan nimi on Mixtamestarit direct, WI5, FA 2017. Itse Mixtamestarit, M6, FA 2016 on taas enemmän alkukauden reitti. Se seurailee halkeamaa putouksen oikeasta laidasta vasemmalle, mutta jää nopeasti putouksen alle.

Jääputouksen oikeasta laidasta löytyy hänkki kattohalkema, joka on vielä projekti. Halkeamasta oikealle on El Toro, M6, WI5. Hienoimpia ensinousujani Suomessa. Harmi, että reitti on vain muodostunut kerran kevät-talvella, auringon sulattaessa lunta. El Toron vierestä numerolla yksi löytyy Patriarkka, M5+.

HYYPIINVUORI:

Vähän Haukkavuoren pohjoispuolelta löytyy Hyypiinvuori.

Hyypiinvuoren jääputous löydettiin ja ensinoustiin 2016.

Toinen Hyypiinvuoren linjoista on Hospital effect, M5+, FA 2016, joka löytyy heti jääputouksen oikealta puolelta. Nimi tulee siitä, kun reitin ensinousun jälkeen ajoimme Kallen kanssa läheiselle kalliolle yrittämään erään mixtalinjan ensinousua ground-uppina. Jään korkatessa lensin linjan takana olleen kelokoivun päälle muutamaa metriä ylempää. Isku oli sen verran kova, että sairaalareissu siitä tuli. Ei vammoja, mutta lihakset olivat niin jumissa tällistä, että en päässyt seuraavaan viikkoon sängystä ylös.

KAARNAVUORI:

Juvan Kaarnavuori on kuuluisa teknokatostaan, mutta sieltä löytyy myös erinomainen mixtalinja Khimaira, M6, FA 2017. Reitti alkaa katon alapuolisilta jäiltä ja traversaa niitä linkittäen oikeaan hyllylle, mihin saa tehtyä ständin. Toinen 20 metrinen kp seuraa sisäkulman jäitä suoraan ylös ja toppaa villin ja ilmavan katon kautta vasemmalle.

Kalle ensimmäisen köydenpituuden lopulla.

Toppaus on mieleenpainuva.

08.11.2018

Fossilfossen in Fossildalen, Svalbard.

October was supposed to be a working month in Finland but after all I flew to Longyearbyen to see my girlfriend who is studying to become a Arctic Nature Guide. Of course I took my ice climbing gear with me as winter was sneaking in early this year in the north. Temperatures sawed above and below freezing which promised good conditions for ice climbing. However the main thing was to live with Ella and help with a household.

In late September ANG students did their classic hike to Barentsburg and back. On that hike Ella spotted an icefall in Fossildalen which looked quite technical and steep in the pictures. Respectable finding as she had not climbed any ice earlier. At least it took me a while to see if something is worth of going.

You can see the icefall in the steep part of the valley.

It took some time to figure out the best way to approach the icefall. Fossildalen is situated in between of Longyearbyen and Barentsburg which means at least on day hike from either direction. Speed boat option was out of question due to late timing and there wasn´t snow for snowmobiles which would be the easiest way to reach the icefall. Luckily Max suggested a walk from Barentsburg.

We took a tourist cruise to that old Soviet time mining town, drove to the end of the road with “taxi” and hiked three hours to the Traveller´s cabin near Kapp Laila. We just maneged to reach the hut before darkness. Following morning we walked to the mouth of Fossildalen, left all camping gear under some stones and followed riverbed up to the icefall. Canyon was narrow and rockfall danger was there all the time. Nothing big came down but fist size stones were big enough to keep helmets on.

Icefall looked easier than a month ago. It was still running with water! I climbed first 30 meters to a good ledge and belayed Ella up. This was her first time on waterfall ice which made me quite proud. Of course some swearing because I forgot to give technical advice before climbing. Upsss!

We both did the remaining five or so meters and rapped off from a V-thread. This was probably the first ascent of “Fossilfossen”, WI4, 35 meters. Ice quality was superb. I hope it becomes a classic early season trip for local climbers or a must do winter trip with snowmobiles. It´s worth it.

That evening we hiked to the Rusanov cabin on the other side of Colesbukta. Not as cozy as Kapp Laila hut but still a good place to stay to avoid bringing a tent.

Third and last day took us over the platteus to Bjørndalen in a full on blizzard. Quite an adventure!

Fossilfossen, WI4, 35m. FA? Juho Knuuttila and Ella Hellberg, 10/2018.

Early season ice trip:

Day 1: Boat to Barentsburg. Pay for the locals to drive you to the end of the road (to a place called skihouse). Walk three hours and 12km to the Traveller´s cabin.

Day 2: Walk 1,5h to the mouth of Fossildalen. Follow the riverbed for one hour. Climb “Fossilfossen” and hike back to the shore and continue to the Rusanov cabin. Whole day took 9 hours for us.

Day 3: Walk to Bjørndalen in 7 hours. Call someone to pick you up.

03.01.2018

Patagonia 2017 – Exocet and Cerro Piergiorgio

Pointy granite towers, powerfull storms, loads of walking and alpine trickery! I and Sami Modenius spent five weeks in funky El Chalten at the begining of Austral summer. Period between mid November and Christmas set out to be only possible time to go this year as in January other mandatory things keep me in Finland.

Early season means less people and more ice and mixed objectives which felt great after so much rock climbing in summer. Though, we were hoping to do both! Trip was my first and Sami´s second to the area.

We arrived to El Chalten on 17th of November. After one restday we headed to the base of Supercanaleta in 6,5 hours from Rio Electrico’s bridge. Approach conditions were superb and route looked to be in also. Unfortunately winds were stronger than expected. Night in a small bivy tent on Glaciar Fitz Roy Norte was one of the windiest I have experienced with flying stones making holes to tent fabric and fear of poles snapping. The following day we ran back to valley. Aguja Guillaumet would have been doable that day, but were too late to hike up to Paso Guillaumet.

Few days later we hiked to Niponino with rather heavy loads. Roar of the wind head of the Torre valley made even hiking look a bad idea. It wasn´t that awful but not pleasant either. That night 10cm of wet snow fell to Niponino making night´s approach to Col Standhardt harder. We climbed 1,5 pitches of Exocet before bailing. Sami was feeling cold and not super stoked about getting spindrifted in the chimney due to strong western wind. So I down climbed to the block and we rapped off.

Sami down climbing off from Col Standhardt.

Exocet, Aguja Standhardt

Aguja Standhardt`s world famous ice chimney is the easiest route to the summit of the easiest of the Torres. Bridwell did the first ascent in 1988 with his companions. Later on climb has gained popularity as one the best alpine ice climbs in the world.

We managed to climb it in 1st of December in a brilliant weather window, which was almost too good to climb Exocet but after two bails we wanted to summit something before attempting bigger lines. Naive to think that window as good as that was would happen again during our trip. Now I know.

We hiked to Niponino day earlier and used afternoon bouldering and sorting gear. At midnight we climbed up to Col Standhardt in 3h and 40 min from Niponino. Sami led first slabby mixed pitches and easy snow traverses to the base of the first ice pitch.

My lead block started here. First pitch was WI4 this year with already quite steep formations. During this pitch and first chimney pitch we had to wait very slow team from Argentina as they were climbing above us. It took three hours before they rapped off. By this time chimney started run with water. Day was cold and slightly cloudy luckily. I think pitches went this time like WI4+, WI5+, WI5 and WI4 with a stiff grading. All in all it was steeper than I expected and as a first ice climb of the season – a bit pumpy.

At col sun dried our wet clothes quickly. Easy slab and snow field led to base of the summit mushroom which Sami climbed easily to the top. Views were superb!

Rapping down and hike back to Niponino went easily and by the time it was getting dark again we reached our camp. Probably the most fun day of alpine climbing ever! We would have been hours faster without waiting but in that case, day would have been too perfect.

WOW! Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Punta Herron.

Cara Este, Cerro Piergiorgio, second ascent

One day weather window happened on 12th of December. Hike in the day before was rainy and full of bad luck as wind destroyed Sami´s sunglasses forcing him to hike back to El Chalten. I teamed up with Canadian Quentin Roberts at Niponino as we thought climbing together would be better than soloing on our own.

At 5am we started walking to the base of Cerro Piergiorgio. Dry glacier and Boquette de Piergiorgio´s icefall went fast as actually whole approach. Snow was rock hard and we cruised past of the many seracs that hang above the approach.

Speedy approach to the base of the wall.

We simul soloed to the base of the first proper pitch which I climbed as 50m M5. Chamonix style mixed! Quentin freed the next aid pitch by climbing a chimney on the left(35m, M6 R/X). We left three pitons which is unfortunate as the line is already full of ugly pins. Probably due to my inexperince to hack them off. But actually now free variation is more enjoyable as you can clip the pins. Quentin also led the third and last of the chimney freed by Sim and Griffith in 2010 as M7. Now it was max M6 but conditions make diffirence.

Quentin climbing second proper pitch. Aid line goes on the right.

Third mixed pitch Sim-Griffith climbed as M7. Now a way easier.

We simul climbed an ice ramp and did one mixed pitch to the ridge. Short rappel led to the summit chimney which I climbed with some cursing. We would have been able to avoid the rappel by climbing ice smears straight under the summit!!

Colin Haley and Rolando Garibotti did first ascent of the peak in 2014. This was only second ascent of the peak which is crazy! One of the main peaks of the massif. We rapped off from a #1 cam due to lack of ice and other features. Rest of the descent back to Niponino went without problems. Return trip took a bit more than 17 hours. Not bad.

Line is a good option when winds come from N or NW! Enjoyable mixed!

01.02.201701.02.2017

Hot ice in the Alps – Glacenost and Shiva Lingam

Ice climbing conditions in the Alps looked very promising in January. I deciced to hit the Cham once again.

RIVE DROITE

On a first day of the trip we headed to the Rive Droite, which is normally quite hazardous place to climb due to avalanche danger. Skiing the exposed slope to the rappel point wasn’t probably the best place to start learning how to ski.

Two overhanging rappels led to the gorge and under of our climb. Aquabatic (WI5) offered three pitches of slushy, steep ice. You could pick screws out while seconding. Again, way too many teams on the route but you can’t complain.

The next day saw us skiing back to Rive Droite to climb the legendary Shiva Lingam (WI6). Two easy approach pitches led to the vertical 30 meter pillar. We had to wait almost two hours for our turn under a medusa. Finally Samppa dispatched the melting beauty in a evening light. Massive respect to Thierry Renault whom climbed this route 30 years ago. One of the first grade 6 icefalls anywhere.

Juho climbing on the second pitch. @Samppa

Shiva Lingam! Ville seconding the pillar.

GOGNE ICE

The next one on the list was Repentance Super (WI5+/6) in Gogne. Sami had climbed it few weeks earlier, but kindly suggested another round. A mega classic lived up it’s repetations. Three steep pitches of cauliflowers, hooking and very wet ice. Not so hard, but fun to climb though. We topped out to the summit platteu, had a brief lunch break and rappelled down. Italian ice at it’s best!

Samppa and Ville wanted to climb Lau Bij direct (WI5+) so we headed to Lillaz the following day. We spent the day cragging on that sector. Ice direct, Medusa-Edelweiss hybrid and Direct dry were all climbed.

Juho climbing the Lau Bij direct. @Ville Ojansivu.

Juho balancing his way up on the Medusa-Edelweiss hybrid (link up of the ice). @Ville Ojansivu.

In Valsaveranche we ticked the Trip in the Night (WI5+) via left-hand variation which included few meters of overhanging ice.

GLACENOST

Mythical grade 6 icefall in the Bramans gorge had been climbed several times this winter and now temperature was rising quickly, so our time frame to climb it was closing. Early start on Sunday morning brought us to the Haute Maurienne which looked very diffirent compared to the MB massif. Nice to see new parts of the Alps time to time.

The narrow gorge is a spectacular place to be. Wild river running through and vertical 150m walls rising above . We climbed the route in three pitches. Especially the last one will stay in memories for a long time. Our plan was to rappel the last pitch to the bolted stand and climb the route on the right (Cadeau Surpise, WI6/+), but the sunshine melted the ice too fast. We escaped the gorge quickly.

Even though I didn’t have a chance to lead I feel this was one of the best days on ice ever. Steep and wild sorbet! One of those places I’ll come back for sure!

Tatu climbing wild formations of Glacenost.

BRINGING HOME THE BACON

Rive Gauche could be the best place for climbers when there’s a bad weather. Mixed and dry tooling lines following each other. We aimed for the Bringing home the Bacon (M6+) as it should be one best in the area.

Two funky rappels brought us to a big snowy ledge. We climbed the easiest line to the start of of the first proper pitch. I led the whole day as Ville was learning how to use axes on rock.

Bulgy second pitch went around M5+ and the traversing third one around M6+. Nothing complicated but un-frozen turf and fresh snow didn’t help climbing too much. Three star pitches back to back make you smile. A fun day out!